Two Eat Philly

Roasted Eggplant Dip

2012-03-01T08:05:00.000-05:00

Paula Deen has a bad reputation. She recently admitted to having Type II Diabetes and the majority of her recipes start (and end) with at least two sticks of butter. However, it's hard to resist her bubbly Southern charm, and her recipes always look incredibly tasty. A recently watched her make a number of dishes on an episode of her Food Network show- and one of them actually sounded healthy (I was somewhat suspicious...).

Roasted Eggplant Dip (adapted from this recipe)

Ingredients
1 medium eggplant
4 large garlic cloves, quartered lengthwise
2 T olive oil
2 T tahini
the juice of 1/2 lemon plus a pinch of zest
1/3 cup of parsley
salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 450F. Line a baking sheet with foil. The fun part of this recipe is prepping the eggplant. After washing and drying it, I used the tip of a sharp knife to cut slits about 3/4 of an inch deep and one inch long. I rotated the knife back and forth to widen the slits- maybe I'm weird but this definitely made me think of a voodoo doll... Next, take the pieces of garlic and push them into the superficial holes.

I guess I skipped the "drying" step...

Place the eggplant on the baking sheet and lightly coat the sheet and the eggplant with cooking spray. I roasted mine for about 35 minutes, flipping the eggplant halfway through. It should be very soft with a somewhat wrinkly appearance when it is complete. The skin will char a bit, but this is difficult to visualize since it is already such a dark color.

While the eggplant bakes, I set up my food processor and collected the remaining ingredients. Obviously a bowl of dip isn't a meal, so I worked to chop and prep a number of "dippers"- carrots, cuke, celery, and pita wedges as well as some kalamata olives and marinated mushrooms.

Dip related ingredients.

When my eggplant was fully cooked (it had a good amount of "give" when I squeezed it with a pair of tongs), I used two forks to transfer it to my cutting board and then to peel off the skin. The skin should come off easily- another sign that the eggplant is ready. It was extremely hot and steamy, so be careful! Additionally, be sure not to pull out the garlic cloves with the skin. Don't worry about getting every single piece of skin off- I left a bit on the end (discard the stem). Roughly chop the garlic and eggplant innards- it'll be a relatively unattractive pile of mush at this point.

So steamy.

I rather haphazardly scooped up the eggplant mush and transferred it to my extra-large food processor. I probably could have gotten away with using a smaller processor, but use your best judgement based on how you've scaled the recipe. I pureed the eggplant until it resembled a smooth version of its former self (still ugly..)- about thirty seconds.

Add in the remaining ingredients sans parsley and process another thirty seconds. The tahini really works some magic in making the dip look lighter in color and much smoother- it will start to resemble hummus.

I roughly chopped a good handful of flat parsley and pulsed that just a few times to mix it in. Obviously the parsley is entirely adjustable in terms of quantity and how fine you'd like it to be.

We both really enjoyed this- the simple combination of a little citrus, garlic, and parsley really brighten the eggplant without completely masking its subtle flavor. After the eggplant came out of the oven, I completed the process relatively quickly, so it was still warm at serving. It took the edge off of an otherwise cold meal, but a cooled version would be more suitable for the summer months. Another note- the quantity ended up being a little less than I had expected- eggplant has a high water content so it cooks down quite a bit. This would be a fun make-ahead dinner party appetizer, but be sure to use two or three eggplants if you're making it for a crowd!

What I Learned at COOK

2012-02-26T21:00:00.003-05:00

We had the extremely good fortune of snagging tickets to one of COOK's February classes. If you haven't heard of COOK, it's a "Collaborative Kitchen-Classroom," or in other words, a place where you spend an ungodly amount of money to spend a few hours chowing down with your favorite chef(s). Co-sponsored by the one and only Foobooz, as well as Philadelphia Magazine, it really doesn't need their press. The class we signed up for sold out in just hours, and we all laid down $145 a person for an event we really knew very little about. Described as a neighborhood "pop-up," all we knew was we would be eating with a number of chefs representing restaurants from the Fishtown district. Since it is considered a "classroom," we present to you: What I Learned at COOK.

1. The flavors and personalities behind Loco Pez, Fishtown's new SoCal-style taco joint reinforced my desire to make it to the restaurant. Operated by co-chefs "Big Joe" and "Little Joe," the key is a combination of simplicity and freshness.

2. Yes, at COOK, they do sometimes cook for you while you watch. Fresh guacamole was prepared for us as a pre-dinner snack. Other items, such as the marinated and slow cooked short ribs used in one of the taco varieties, are prepared ahead of time.

3. Four courses, each from a separate restaurant, will leave you stuffed beyond belief. In this case, it's best just to go with it. While none of the courses really meshed with the others, the timing of the evening was such that it was like consuming four mini meals.

4. The chefs of the evening were wonderfully enthusiastic and great fun just to be around-- and that's without even taking their cooking skills into consideration.

L to R: Peter McAndrews (Paesano's Philly Style); "Little Joe" (Loco Pez); Zoe Lukas (Whipped Bakeshop); Daniela D'Ambrosia (The Pickled Heron); Daniela's sister/sous chef; Peter's sous chef

5. Sharing a bowl of chips and guac with the 15 strangers helps to break the ice. They also have a formal icebreaker, in which chefs and patrons alike stated his/her name and last great meal in the city.

6. Loco Pez uses a marinade for their short ribs that includes sugar and soy sauce. Not sounding particularly Mexican? Apparently there is quite an Asian influence in both Mexican and SoCal cuisines- and although I have zero hard sources for that, the sweet and salty mix worked wonders for the often tough cut of meat.

7. The three tacos were worlds apart in terms of flavor and texture, but each was outstanding. My favorite was the deep fried grouper taco (hello, white sauce), but J's favorite was the seitan- chewy, salty and.. almost meaty! The accoutrements pumped up the flavor profile- a little cilantro here, some raw onion and a squeeze of lime there, and a dollop of housemade spicy green salsa on it all.

L to R: Fried Grouper Taco, Braised Short Rib Taco, Seitan Taco

8. Loco Pez doesn't use housemade corn tortillas, but the little guys were just simple carriers for the good stuff on top.

9. On to our favorite course of the evening- "sandwiches" from Paesano's, made by Peter McAndrews himself. He demonstrated the preparation of the roast pork (for the Porchetta Sandwich- also known as the Arista at the shop), but this huge hunk of meat was never ours, as we once again relied on a pre-made roast.

10. McAndrews uses whole cloves of garlic, lots of fresh herbs and his secret ingredient- anchovies- in his preparation of the roast.

11. What should you use if you don't have fresh herbs on hand? Well, you should stab yourself in the leg. And in the case of one who may not enjoy anchovies? Might as well kill yourself. Advice straight from the man himself.

12. McAndrews loves to use sexual innuendos to help novice chefs understand the art of cooking.

Constructing the Porchetta Sandwiches

13. Jerry Blavet (also known as Geator with the Heator/Boss with the Hot Sauce) might make an impromptu appearance in the middle of a COOK class. Seemingly welcomed off the street, he was greeting fans (ie the older members of the class) and sipping a drink for the duration of McAndrew's class time.

14. Chicken livers, when doused in hot sauce and flash fried, are nothing to be scared of.

15. Don't want an entire sandwich? Need to make a plate of appetizers for a large group? Construct your favorite sandwich open-faced style on slivers of toasted baguette.

Porchetta: Italian Long Hots, Sharp Provolone, Broccoli Rabe Pesto, and Roast Pork

16. Broccoli rabe pesto is delicious- a unique way to add the bitter greens to a dish without having to deal with their bulk.

17. Next time I go to Paesano's, I'm getting the Liverace. One of the best sandwiches I've ever had-- a surprise hit with orange marmalade and chicken livers-- who would have thought?

Liverace: Roasted Tomatoes, Sweet Orange Marmalade, Provolone, Crispy Chicken Livers and Sriracha

18. I don't make homemade pasta, but I might get an attachment for my future KitchenAid mixer just for this. Daniela makes it look like a breeze.

19. The Pickled Heron- open just eight weeks at the time of our class- has been making a splash in the Philly dining scene. OK, I didn't learn that at COOK. But I DID learn why- this girl has talent. Classic French food made by an Italian? Somehow, it works.

20. Homemade raviolis (well, made by a professional) to serve a crowd of fifteen take about twenty minutes from start to finish. I'm impressed.

White Bean Raviolis with Shredded Osso Bucco, Brussels Sprouts and Fried Sage

21. Some of the lone veggies of the night- pan roasted brussels sprouts and butternut squash- played a huge role as a topping for these white bean raviolis. The rich, slow roasted, meaty shredded osso bucco didn't hurt either.

22. A lot of people in the food industry don't take a straight path to get there. Zoe Lukas is an artist by training, but uses her design skills to make beautiful- but also incredibly tasty- baked goods.

23. The Sasquatch Brownie is so named because it is simply legendary. Zoe did note that some patrons of her shop are embarrassed to ask for it by name. But don't be- it is hands down the best (and also most decadent) brownie in the city. And now I have the recipe.

24. Zoe used the microwave to melt the chocolate for the ganache- and swears its the best method. George Perrier is the only other chef to use the microwave at COOK, at least so far.

Sasquatch Brownie: Nearly flourless, doused in salted caramel and chocolate ganache

25. Our "favors" for the evening: almond sugar cookies with amazing icing designs (one depicted the storefront of Paesano's!). Want something similar from the shop? That'll be $4.75.

26. Describing our experience at COOK is impossible- you just have to live it. It'll be the most we pay for any food event this year, but it was 100% worth it to spend an evening getting to know the chefs of some of our past, current, and future favorite spots in the city- and indulge in a night of amazing eats, of course.

27. It wouldn't be possible without the people at COOK, the chefs and their sous chefs, or the men of Foobooz and Philadelphia Magazine. For an endeavor I at first thought might be frivolous, they have turned it into a truly one-of-a-kind Philly food event.

COOK
253 S. 20th Street

Loco Pez
2401 E. Norris Street

Paesano's Philly Style
152 W. Girard Avenue/1017 S. 9th Street

The Pickled Heron
2218 Frankford Avenue

Whipped Bakeshop
636 Belgrade Street

Sketch Burger

2012-02-22T19:34:00.001-05:00

One of A & I's favorite things to do is play hostess(es) to visitors- particularly ones not too familiar with Philadelphia. It's so much fun to come up with a weekend itinerary of unique ways to see the city. One of our cousins and her boyfriend came up for three days, and we decided to take them up to Fishtown for a fun Friday evening. First stop: Sketch Burger. This hole-in-the-wall burger joint makes up for its small size with a bright and playful atmosphere. Painted neon green and decorated with Christmas lights on the outside, plastered with patrons (mostly burger oriented) artwork on the inside- complete with crayons, markers, and construction paper at each table.

While we admired the artwork, we also checked out the menu. Staples include a variety of burgers (with your choice of toppings, sauces, and cheeses) and sandwiches (pulled pork and grilled chicken), as well as fries and shakes. The specials menu added some variety to the mix.

My personal favorite artwork + the specials.

We started out with a couple orders of fries to split- the regular hand-cut belgian style ($3.50) and the special sweet potato fries ($4.00). Each comes with a side of one sauce- our waitress suggested the chipotle and harissa aioli. The fries came out relatively quickly, served in paper-lined cones with sauce "arms." The sweet potato fries were definitely our favorites- huge chunks of crispy, ridged sweet potato which released a good deal of steam when the soft insides were exposed. Tossed in salt and pepper, these didn't need a sauce at all. However, the harissa aioli was a HUGE hit at our table- creamy and spicy and highly addicting.

The belgian fries were a little less exciting- a smaller cut and subsequently a lot less crispy. Good, but just get the sweet potato if they're offering them.

There was a pretty long wait at this point, which seemed weird since the place is so small and the menu is relatively straight-forward. At the end of the meal I realized people were coming in pretty frequently to pick up to-go orders which made a little more sense. While we waited, we created some masterpieces for the wall- I taped A's up next to where we were sitting.

When we finally did get our food, I dug into a standard sirloin beef burger ($6.95) with harissa aioli (free) and avocado ($1.50). The egg-washed white bun was incredibly fluffy - easily squished to maximize a mouthful of all the components. I really loved the shape of the burger itself - perfectly fitted to its bun, almost an inch tall, with a compactness that never threatened to crumble apart.

All burgers go to heaven?

Lettuce and tomato comes standard on the burger, but the avocado and aioli added a whole lot of creaminess- a perfect complement to the crispy meat. The flavor combination was incredible- I don't eat burgers all that often so maybe I've just been deprived, but this thing hit the spot. My one complaint was that the medium-rare was more like medium-well. Fortunately it really had no bearing on the deliciousness of the sandwich as a whole.

I had to eat part of the half in order to hold it up.

A and I did our typical "trade 1/2 for 1/2" switcheroo, and I was excited to try out her pick- the special Thai red curry and coconut milk chicken burger with mango chutney ($7.95). The extensive title made it sound a little more flavorful that it actually was. The chicken patty itself was similar in density and size as its beefy counterpart- almost tricking me into thinking it was actually a whole piece of chicken.

The predominant flavor was a sweet chili sauce- not curry at all- as well as the double-sided slathering of a cloying fruit spread containing chunks of dried mango. I personally didn't love the overly sweet flavor profile- especially after my umami bomb of a burger- but A loved it.

My cousin ordered the exact same thing as I did (a trend that continued over the course of the weekend.. we must be related!) but her boyfriend dressed up a burger with sauteed mushrooms and onions, a fried egg over medium, and American cheese. This version tops out at $12- the toppings can add up quickly! However, the thing was a beast and probably worth every cent.

Sketch has an extensive ice cream (regular and vegan) menu, but we were saving room for fire-roasted s'mores at Frankford Hall and were plenty full from burgers and fries. Classic American favorites done right. Next time I'm ordering my burger super rare- with extra harissa aioli!

Sketch Burger
413 E. Girard Ave

MidAtlantic

2012-02-19T19:51:00.000-05:00

It's not a rare event for us to review a brand-new restaurant. It IS unusual for us to discuss our first time trip to a restaurant that is nearing its last days- but that is what this is. Chef Daniel Stern's locally inspired University City spot will be closing on February 24th, and we almost allowed it to run its course without visiting. One of our friends is a huge fan of the restaurant, and was looking for anyone who would join her for a meal before it closed. Perhaps we shouldn't have visited, as now we know what we'll be missing, but we're glad we finally gave it a go.

Source

The space is not in an ideal part of town for business- mostly university and office buildings surround it- but inside and out, it is unique and provides a feeling of funkiness and fun.

The menu has been cut down significantly from its original, probably because of decreased staff and just the gradual process of closing down. However, we really just wanted an assortment of small plates, and many of these are still available. First up- the bread service. Our friend was pretty excited to introduce us to the flaky, buttery spiced biscuits, but later said they were different from the original. Either way, we loved them- small enough that you won't fill up, and flavorful enough that you really don't need more than one. They are salty and savory, with almost a Thanksgiving stuffing flavor (sage?).

We ordered a number of small plates to split, the first of which was the Pig Wings ($12). A bit on the pricy side for an appetizer, but with a name like that, you can't skip them. However, they're a bit misleading-- they aren't wings at all. Instead, they are small cubes of soft, fatty roasted pork, breaded, fried, and tossed in a rosewater-molasses sauce. They were crunchy on the outside, but the inner texture was more like pork belly. The thick sauce was a balance of sweetness and spice (and no apparent sickly rose flavor), and while the garlic buttermilk dipping sauce on the side was good, it was kind of overkill. As weird as these little guys were on first bite, they were rather addicting.

The menu also has a bit of a Southern flair (starting with the biscuits!), and the inclusion of fried green tomatoes made us happy. Their version comes served over a smoky mayo based spread, and is topped with a heap of arugula tossed in a light bacon vinaigrette ($8). The tomatoes themselves were lightly breaded but overly fried, leaving limp, softened slices of tomato where we expected firm green tomatoes with a good bite. Perhaps that's what we get from ordering tomatoes in February?

Our second tomato-based dish sounded great on the menu- a Smoked Tomato Fondue ($10). A huge bowl of rich pureed tomatoes was topped with a hefty drizzle of a smoked basil pesto and a slice of melty goat cheese and a bit of oregano. Toasted slices of baguette to scoop it all up made it almost like a deconstructed margherita pizza. The bread to sauce ratio was way off though, and the cheese was really hard to scoop up with the rest of it. Many bites just seemed like bread dipped in canned, stewed tomatoes-- it didn't taste bad but it was definitely our least favorite.

Our friend ordered her all-time favorite menu item, the house baked Warm Soft Pretzel ($9), and while it's now served with a side of mustard, she requested it served with the welsh rarebit fondue (which it used to always come with!). The melty cheese stole the show, although the pretzel was perfect- crisp on the outside and doughy on the inside, with that perfect bite that defines a good soft pretzel. Once the pieces of pretzel disappeared, however, we continued dipping everything ELSE on the table into the cheese.

At this point we were all stuffed, but we needed to try at least one of the larger menu items. J and I decided to split the Roast Pork sandwich, a delicious twist on a Philly classic ($12). The sandwich is served on a pretzel bun, which is essentially a larger version of the appetizer-- yay, more soft pretzel! The shredded roast pork is super juicy and flavorful, almost as if cooked in a concentrated broth. Bitter broccoli rabe and a huge smothering of smoked cheddar (hello, more cheese) made this one of the best pork sandwiches I've ever had-- but probably best eaten when enormously hungry, not after eating almost a half dozen small plates. The skin-on fried potato wedges were a great alternative to fries, although their outer fried shell was thick as if cooked in oil that was not quite hot enough. Crispy when they first arrived, as soon as they cooled to the touch, they became a bit soggy.

Overall, our meal was a lot of fun. Stern originally aimed to serve twists on classic Pennsylvanian dishes, both of Philly and Amish styles- and while some of that is still apparent, it definitely has morphed over the few short years it has been open. A few kitchen snafus and a ho-hum server (she seemed totally over it, and looked bored when we mentioned the impending closing) may have been a sign of the times, but it may also have contributed to the need to close up shop. We've heard rumors that the space will be snatched up by an enormously famous Philly restauranteur (with the initials of SS?), but nothing solid has been reported yet.

MidAtlantic (since announcing the closing, the website is gone)
3711 Market Street

The Corner

2012-02-16T16:44:00.000-05:00

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Seems like we've been using a lot of Groupon type deals lately... they certainly help lure us to places we might not otherwise be inspired to try. The Corner used to be a cocktail bar, but was reinvented as a sleek yet casual American restaurant serving up fun twists on classic comfort foods. We actually tried to use a deal for The Corner a few weekends ago, but a sign saying "Temporarily Closed" and a giant pit in the street outside deterred us- apparently road work had caused some serious power and gas shortages to a few restaurants on busy 13th Street.

We ended up trying again about two weeks later for a week-night birthday dinner celebration, and the manager recognized us from our conversation with him during the power outage. Apparently the heat still wasn't running, but space heaters and unseasonably warm weather made it tolerable. The manager was completely gracious (especially for something that was not in any way the restaurant's fault) and we got extra special treatment for returning.

The culprit.

Even though we were dining during Restaurant Week, we were allowed to order a la carte, which was much appreciated (though their 4 course RW menu definitely seemed like a good deal- we just weren't in the mood for that much food!). We started out with a "snack"- the fried pickles with spicy mayo ($3), a few chunks of soft pickles encased in a light tempura batter. The lightness of the tempura allowed it to stay intact with the pickle inside, soaking up the salty brine. A side of mayo-based dip was thin and essentially a creamy version of Frank's Red Hot. I actually forgot I was eating pickles at one point, it tasted so much like wing sauce.

So many of the small plates sounded amazing- it was practically impossible to pick just one. From the bay scallops & dumplings to the jalapeno grit cakes, the advertised "American cuisine" definitely has a good Southern influence. However, we were most intrigued by the warm potato salad ($8). A pile of perfectly al dente fingerling potatoes tossed in a light truffle oil-based dressing was layered with a few slices of extra salty, pale pink deli ham and roasted pearl onions. A fat poached egg rested atop the haphazard layers. We both really enjoyed the truffle flavor infused into the potatoes- subtle enough to allow the parsley and roasted onions to maintain their presence. The one "miss" on this dish was the ham- it definitely had a weird texture.

A encouraged me to order the seafood hot dog ($12)- certainly a unique menu item. Served on an extra-pillowy potato bun with a thick squirt of avocado mayonnaise, the dog itself is griddled to a crisp. It had a snappy bite and an inner texture reflecting the scallop and shrimp within. Definitely a fun alternative to the greasy version of who-knows-what kinds of animal parts. A side of chips were paper thin and lacked any real flavor, but the coleslaw was crisp and fresh with a perfect balance of pepper-y spice and acidic vinegar.

A explored the only vegetarian option of the "larger plates"- the sweet potato turnip gratin ($14). Crispy thin layers of the starchy vegetables were somehow arranged in a perfect circle and baked under a parmesan cheese crust. A bed of soft beluga lentils were on the plain side, but added a necessary protein element that some restaurants seem to leave out of their veg options. Overall a hearty winter entree that again displayed that perfect al dente texture through the layers of the gratin.

To complement the real lack of green vegetables in our meal, we ordered a side of our classic favorite- the brussels sprouts ($6). Quartered with a good bit of stem, the large chunks of brussels were tossed in oil and oven-roasted to a nice crispy outer char. Bits of thick-cut homemade Italian bacon gave a salty, chewy compliment to the softer sprouts. A solid serving of veggies served up in a classic rendition that was full of flavor- not particularly inspired, but certainly satisfying.

The Corner has so many interesting choices across the board, so I was sort of surprised when we took a look at the dessert options- a brownie, pound cake, and a bread pudding. The latter, made with banana bread and served with a cranberry sauce, was the only real original dessert- but not enough so to compel an order. Maybe next time?

We're quite glad we circumvented the original deterrent and made it back to The Corner to see what John Taus had up his sleeve. The restaurant has cycled though a few chefs, but we enjoyed this rendition of the menu and would recommend it to anyone looking for a casual dinner- a few degrees removed from classy Barbuzzo only a few doors down, but certainly offering a menu full of tasty and inventively-altered classic American dishes.

The Corner
102 South 13st Street

The Tomato Bistro

2012-02-13T21:31:00.001-05:00

Many months ago, I casually mentioned to my Roxborough-dwelling significant other that he should purchase a Groupon for a multi-course meal for two at The Tomato Bistro. The Manayunk eatery is the recent addition to the dual Tomato restaurants right off of Main Street. While firstborn The Couch Tomato Cafe specializes in walk-up, laid-back American cuisine- think pizzas and sandwiches- the Tomato Bistro is its slightly upscale, full-service counterpart. Opening last October, their November Groupon offer was assumedly a ploy to draw attention to the new space.

I later forgot about the Groupon until December, when I was surprised with it as a Christmas gift. Since its expiration is approaching in March, I nailed down a night for us to use it. Upon arrival, we were led up to the top floor, which features a balcony overlooking the larger second floor seating area. It was fairly empty upon arrival, but it was packed by the time we left- looks like they have had no trouble bringing in business.

Second and third floors Source

Our Groupon provided us with a TON of food (for only $25!), and let us sample from every part of the menu. While we were perusing the options, our waitress brought us each a tiny cup of- you guessed it- tomato soup. I actually think this was a small serving of their "Pizza Soup," a combination of a thick, sweet tomato sauce flavored with basil and a splash of cream with a piece of well-toasted crostini soaking up the juices. The bread was my favorite part- it crumbled like a dense shortbread cookie on every bite. Plus, I'm always a sucker for a fun "amuse bouche."

Testing out his new iPhone camera

We then selected our options for the evening, which included three small plates (from about twenty options spanning seafood to mac n'cheese to bruschetta), a pizza, and a salad. I immediately knew I wanted the Crispy Artichokes (typically $8.99), and I received a somewhat begrudging "Merry Christmas" for the choice. Three baby artichoke halves were prepped and deep-fried, reminding me of my recent first exposure to deep-fried artichoke hearts at Varalli- now that I've tasted it, I can't ignore it.

Served over a bed of arugula and a small pool of lemon-scented aoili, it was kind of a mini-salad. The frying process gave the 'chokes a super soft texture without ruining their subtle flavor- even my veggie-avoider enjoyed a piece.

His addition to the table was an order of the Kobe Sliders ($8.99), which come as two mini burgers, each with different toppings. The mini grilled brioche buns and the melt-in-your mouth, buttery meat would have been beautiful all on their own, but they also paired well with both a grilled portobello + truffle oil combination as well as the guacamole + pepper jack topping.

Left: Guacamole Right: Portobello

Our final appetizer was an order of mussels- something we can both always agree on. With three options for cooking styles, we settled on the assumedly classic combo of White Wine and Garlic ($9.99). The portion was perfect to split, and the mussels themselves were so big I'm still wondering how they fit in their shells. My major complaint was the sauce- while it wasn't overpowering to the mollusks themselves, I wouldn't want it on its own- flavors of fennel and capers dominated, while the wine and garlic seemed to be missing. Thankfully, the bread served alongside was one of my favorite parts of the meal- a hunk of wheaty, fluffy foccacia that I made sure steered clear of the remaining juices.

As our small plates were cleared, our waitress brought out the salad portion of the meal. Their salads are meals in themselves, and even though I picked one of the lighter options, the Goat Cheese Salad, it was impossible to finish ($9.99). A huge pile of spicy arugula (thankfully I love it, after the artichoke dish) was nestled in a bowl with a blanket of dried cranberries and huge bits of salty bacon, all of which was sprinkled with a brown butter-dijon dressing. I usually hate typical restaurant heavy-handed dressing applications, but this was light enough in flavor to not drown the greens. Three crunchy balls of fried goat cheese were obviously the highlight of the show-- goat cheese + deep fried shell = what's not to love?

Goat Cheese Salad + Unnecessary Breadstick

The Couch Tomato and the Tomato Bistro specialize in flat bread pizzas, so I was glad we were able to sample one. They have a number of unique options, including Fig (with fig butter + pears), Duck & Apple, and Guacamole (Mexican flavors), but we went with Pulled Pork ($12.99). We love pulled pork and we love pizza, so what could go wrong? Their crust is thin and chewy, not the thick, doughy kind I prefer, but at this point of the meal, I wasn't gunning for a filling dish. Large pieces of shredded, slow-cooked pork are combined with softened onions cooked in a chipotle sauce that had a hint of cinnamon sweetness- not my favorite, but it wasn't overwhelming as long as you didn't get a huge bite of onion. Smoked gouda and mozzarella covered the whole mess, providing essentially an open-faced pulled pork sandwich.

The pizzas are well sized for two to split for dinner (salad + pizza for two would be perfect), or would be great split with a small group for a snack during a Main Street shopping trip- the Tomato Bistro is open at 11AM every day of the week.

Our final bite of the night was dessert. We were given three options: creme brulee, flourless chocolate cake, or cheesecake. It was a no-brainer since we both love cheesecake. The rendition here seemed more or less homemade (it's sort of hard for me to tell!), with a dense graham cracker crust and a smooth, creamy filling. The swirls of overly sweet chocolate syrup was a distraction at best, but easily avoided.

Overall, our meal at the Tomato Bistro was just what I wanted- a relaxed atmosphere, relatively quiet but with a fun vibe (I could see it getting a little crazier later at night), solid eats with plenty of menu variety for the picky to the adventurous. Especially with our Groupon, it was incredibly well-priced. On a future visit, I would definitely cut down the number of dishes, making it even more affordable as a date spot.

The Tomato Bistro
102 Rector Street
Manayunk

Aziza

2012-02-11T17:39:00.001-05:00

While recapping my long weekend in San Francisco, I purposely didn't mention one of the dinners that I ate while there- the gastronomic highlight of my trip. During our halfhearted watching of the Super Bowl, the other girls and I discussed the options for the evening- the one night we were actually all able to spend time together. I had primarily researched restaurants within walking distance of our hotel, but thankfully one of my friends has tons of travel experience and had scoured SF forums on Chowhound. She suggested checking out a Moroccan restaurant on the opposite side of the city in the Richmond District.

Source

Aziza is owned and operated by a Marrakesh native who focuses on reinventing traditional Moroccan dishes and taking advantage of local and seasonal ingredients. The space is simply decorated with warm colors and textures and arching doorways. The front room had cozy banquet seating with plenty of pillows, but we were seated in the quieter back room. There is the option to do a 5 course, $95 tasting menu, but we stuck with the a la carte selections.

As a group, we opted to split three appetizers. Though the portions aren't huge, it was certainly enough for the four of us to get a good taste of each dish. We made the easy choice of flatbread and dips ($11)- wedges of fluffy grilled pita served alongside three dollops of different spreads. My favorite was the yogurt-dill- a perfect smooth and thick texture for smearing on a bit of bread. The vibrant piquillo pepper and pine-nut dip had a subtle sweetness while the chickpea was a simple garlic-y hummus sans tahini. When a significant amount of the dips remained after the bread disappeared, our waiter brought us another full bowl of pita brushed with olive oil.

Our second starter was another simple dish- a beet salad ($12), the plating of which looked incredibly precise. Translucent shavings of cucumber were carefully twisted into scrolls surrounding squat cylinders of deep purple-red beets. The beets were surprisingly soft and tasted as if they had been pickled in condensed beet juice- an intense flavor that was slightly too sweet. Spicy roasted peanuts and dollops of creme fraiche provided crunchy and creamy textural compliments. A well-conceived dish, though the over-sweet beets pushed it to "least favorite" status.

We got a little more adventurous with our third dish- the sweetbreads ($16) served with romaine and crunchy pieces of a cured meat that had a consistency similar to fried pork rinds. Our menu advertised bone marrow as an accompaniment while the menu on Aziza's website listed a completely different rendition, so it seems like a highly adaptable dish. Three fat, lightly fried chunks of thymus serve as the base of the dish and these were by far the best I've had. The size of each piece was commendable, but the soft texture- reminiscent of a well-cooked scallop or a fried oyster- was heavenly.

There was a nice lull in the meal at this point, but after the outstanding apps I think we were all anticipating the next course. I ordered the short rib ($28)- a solid, fork-tender chunk of meat. I've had my fair share of short ribs, but they've always been served with either a bone or a good amount of connective tissue. I kept expecting to come across one or the other, but each bite was slow-cooked, perfectly seasoned, juicy beef, pure and simple. Carrots two ways- raw shavings and a deeply spiced mash made a unique starch component. A few roasted cippolini onions and a sweet fig glaze harmonized the sweet and savory aspects.


Top-view

We finished the meal on a sweet note, sharing two desserts ($10 each). Extremely dense panna cotta served with a scoop of a cinnamon-tinted vanilla ice cream, crumbles of gingerbread, and a smear of spicy quince paste was just another example of Aziza's genius flavor and texture profiles. The chocolate mousse was less exciting, but the candied kumquats and hazelnut crisp accented the airy, almost custard-like milk chocolate. Like the rest of the dishes, nothing seemed over-complicated- there was always an undertone of simplicity, allowing the ingredients to speak for themselves.

Throughout our meal, the service was excellent. Our waiter had a great sense of humor, and the lone food runner had a low, sultry voice perfect for describing each dish in the most sensual way possible. The meal was well-paced, which wasn't much of a surprise considering how quiet the dining room was that evening. To cap off the dining experience, our waiter delivered an extra plate of treats along with the bill- a small, key lime filled pavlova, a raspberry fruit square, and a bite of chocolate ganache covered peanut butter bar. The pavlova ended up being my surprise favorite- I don't typically like meringue but the key lime cream shocked my tastebuds into a state of supreme happiness.

Between Philly, New York, and Boston, I've eaten at a number of highly-rated restaurants and enjoyed an absurd amount of top-notch food. Regardless, I left Aziza in an almost euphoric state, proclaiming it "the best restaurant I've eaten at in quite some time." I didn't know it at the time, but Aziza is Michelin rated (one star)- the only restaurant with this accolade at which I have eaten. I'm so glad that we decided to make the long trek across the city to check it out- it only made me fall for SF that much harder.

Aziza
San Francisco, CA

San Francisco

2012-02-09T22:05:00.002-05:00

View from our hotel. Where's Waldo?

I've always been an East Coast-er -- born and
raised in Florida followed by a now almost 8 year stint in Philadelphia. The cliched view of the West Coast is less than enticing- snarled traffic, high prices of real estate, and lots of privileged stars? No thanks. Although I've visited family in Washington and traveled a few times to Western Canada, I'd avoided California until last year, when I spent a few days in Long Beach for a conference. Although it was gorgeous and sunny and I was able to dip a single toe into the Pacific Ocean, it didn't have much of a personality. Fast forward one year, and a return trip to the same conference had me destined for San Francisco.

My hopes were a little higher for this trip since I have friends in the area and the city has a bit more of a history than Long Beach. However, I was in no way prepared for the instant rapport I felt after coming up onto Market Street off the BART train. It has a certain sense of livelihood without being overwhelming. The steep hills and cable cars give it a unique charm, and the 65 degree sunny days we enjoyed didn't hurt a bit.

The first day of the conference was jam-packed with seminars and poster sessions, but I did sneak out with a couple of friends for a quick lunch at 'wichcraft, a casual sandwich shop owned by Tom Collichio of Top Chef fame. We actually received a cookbook from this shop as a contest prize, and of course my love for the snarky bald-headed man himself made the choice a no-brainer.

Source

Unfortunately, we were all pretty disappointed by our sandwiches. Considering a well-respected chef put together a menu with plenty of creative sounding options, it was surprising that each of our choices seemed lackluster and flavorless. My pulled pork with jalapeno slices and 'slaw on soggy ciabatta was completely bland. A friend was so put-off by the lack of flavor in her brisket that she couldn't bring herself to finish it. The saving grace of the meal was a small crunchy cookie sandwich- chocolate chip with vanilla creme. Really Collichio? I know this isn't upscale dining, but I expected better.

The following day I had a few things to attend in the morning, but took advantage of a free afternoon and a cloudless sky and set off on an expedition. Armed with a map and a restaurant recommendation, I headed south to an area known as the Design District. Even though I estimated my trip to be about 12 blocks, SF blocks seem ridiculously long, so the walk took at least half an hour. By the time I reached my destination- a hippie-ish, mostly vegan (100% veg) cafe- I was ready to eat.

Source

The Source is a "multi-dimensional dining experience"- they advertise super-purified water and air, as well as stimulating music and colors. Since I was dining alone, I could barely make a dent in the menu- they offer a long list of salads, sandwiches, pizzas, desserts and "elixrs" that would cater to any palate. I never seem to get enough veggies when I'm traveling, so I decided to try the "Living Green Goddess"- a raw dino kale, carrot, sesame seed and red cabbage salad with a "living" green goddess dressing. A & I make a salad similar to this quite often, so I enjoyed its familiarity as well as a little extra crunch in the dino kale. Perhaps it needed a little squeeze of lemon to brighten the flavors and wilt the greens a bit.

I knew I would be walking a bit more and wanted to eat something other than some greens, so I also ordered a side of Source fries with sesame sea salt and a side of creamy gilroy garlic sauce. A fun selection of salts and sauces like jalapeno jam pump up the interest factor on an otherwise standard side dish. This hearty bowl of thick-cut, crispy potatoes were piping hot and incredibly addicting- especially with a little scoop of garlic sauce.

After refueling at Source, I headed out to my next destination- a famous SF bakery in the Mission district. I had purposely avoided anything sweet for lunch (though the selection of brownie bites and cheesecakes at Source looked terrific) in order to try a few pastries at Tartine. Tartine is one of the gems I found while searching the internet for food tips in the area- and it's booming popularity ensures a line out the door at all times.

Thankfully, the line moves quickly, with several ladies working the counter and lining up the orders as they're placed. I needed a few minutes to take in the numerous treats and sweets displayed across several glass cases. The decisions were tough, but I finally settled on three items. Tables are first-come-first-served, so as a lone patron I decided to take the goods back to my hotel for consumption.

On the way I passed through the vibrant Mission district with endless markets and Mexican cafes. I ended up stumbling upon a BART station which was decorated in brightly colored tiles and the sounds of men speaking fervently into loudspeakers en español. Two stops on the train and I was whisked the three miles back to the SOMA (South of Market) district.

I dug into my bag of treats and started out with the macaroon- a little coconut ball of joy that I bought at the last second seeing as it was only $0.75. Dense and sweet with a hint of lemon and the textural delight of shredded coconut- it was macaroon perfection.

Another somewhat impulse choice was the chocolate chip cookie- a large, incredibly thin and crispy sheet of baked sugar and butter. I much prefer my cookies to be dense and chewy, but this rendition- with its rich caramel flavors and studs of dark chocolate- was still plenty enjoyable. I ended up breaking off a few pieces and saved the rest for a pre-hilliest-morning-run-ever snack.

Of course I saved the piece de resistance for last- the pain au chocolat. Melt in your mouth flaky crust encasing pillowy folds of puff pastry with a core of solid dark chocolate... words cannot even describe the levels of richness and the magnitude of soul-satisfying capabilities embedded within this "chocolate bread." Its absurd size made it easy to share with my foodie roommate- and I think it convinced her to make her own pilgrimage to Tartine.

My last full day in SF was spent almost exclusively as a tourist. After a long run over the hills (mountains?) and along the bay, a few friends and I took the short and scenic ferry ride out to Alcatraz Island. The views were amazing and the trip itself immensely educational- Alcatraz has a long and rich history largely unrelated to Al Capone and other high-profile criminals.

After our informative tour, we walked along the water till we came to Fisherman's Wharf- a famous tourist-y section on the Bay. We stopped for lunch at Boudin, a well-known sourdough factory that must pump out a million loaves a day. Everyone ordered clam chowder in a sourdough bread bowl, and while the soup wasn't particularly exciting, the crusty, soup-drenched bread with that perfect sour twinge tasted like quintessential SF- my dad claims its the fog that gives the bread its distinctive flavor.

Our last gustatory stop of the trip was another SF staple- Ghirardelli. Apparently the shop can form long lines in the busiest of tourist seasons, but we hardly had to wait to place our order. A free square of caramel chocolate appeased us while we scoured the menu. There are milkshakes, sundaes, and ice cream concoctions of all shapes and sizes, but I kept it simple with a scoop of Ghirardelli chocolate ice cream in a chocolate dipped waffle cone. Rich and creamy with the perfect balance of sweet and bitter- a great way to end the day.

I truly cannot express how much I loved San Francisco. The few short days that I spent there were such an amazing combination of good eats, good friends, and good science- it just provided me with an overall refreshed feeling toward life. And certainly a new perspective on the West Coast!

Varalli

2012-02-06T21:11:00.000-05:00

Sometimes we tend to focus a bit too much on the hot new restaurants- hard not to, when there seems to be a never ending supply. This constant influx of great new spots- along with the fact that Philadelphians are ruthless when it comes to food- prevent any subpar restaurant from sticking around for long. So, if you've been around for 23 years, you have to be doing something right... right? Such is the case for Varalli (formerly Sotto Varalli), a spacious spot in the midst of the Avenue of the Arts, on the corner of Broad and Locust.

A somewhat dated picture Source

Varalli serves Italian food with a heavy emphasis on seafood and a bit of a Mediterranean influence. It seems to cater to a lot of older clientele, although recent changes (including converting the upstairs to a restyled pub) may be indicative of an attempt to update things for a new generation. Either way, I was lucky enough to be co-recipient of a generous Varalli gift card from one of my future in-laws (thanks!). It was actually a great choice, since I'd never been and the menu is extensive enough to please anyone.

We made an early reservation, as we were catching a show later that night- something Varalli understands and even caters to. The hostess made a special effort to seat us at a prime table, even though we had to wait a few extra minutes for it. It happened to be Restaurant Week, but the $35 dinner offered a somewhat unnecessary four courses, so we opted to order a la carte.

Part of the sea inspired decor- a giant squid Source

First up: a shared appetizer, which of course was fried calamari (my man's favorite). The huge platter was plenty to share, and easily made the price worth it ($12.50). Large rings of lightly breaded squid (sadly, no tentacles) and artichoke hearts were served atop some mixed greens, and topped with dollops of an herb aioli and chopped marinated tomatoes. I was a big fan of these little additions- the greens with a little aioli was salad-like enough to give the deep-fried food a lighter feel. However, the fun little chunks of fried artichokes were my absolute favorite.

Our waiter, a no-nonsense younger guy who seemed to be taking care of the entire room, apologized when he brought the bread service after our first course was served. I didn't fault him at all, though- the appetizer came out surprisingly quick. The bread basket contained several strips of fluffy parmesan, butter, and herb coated foccacia, which were flavorful enough to skip useing either of the two accompanying sauces. Regardless, the bright basil pesto and an herb-infused olive oil were addictive enough to continue dipping into.

The menu spans a number of Italian classics, from which my dining mate chose the Veal Piccata ($22). Two very thinly pounded veal cutlets are lightly breaded before being pan fried and drowned in a buttery, lemon piccata sauce. I'm not the biggest fan of capers (surprising, since I love anything pickled), but I appreciated their tang in the small bite I tried. I also stole the majority of that pile of greens- spinach sauteed to a melt-in-your-mouth consistency, with just the right amount of garlic and lemon to complement the earthy flavors of the greens.

I went with one of the many seafood options, the Grilled Scallops ($25), although I had a tough time deciding against all of the decadent pasta options. I was completely happy with my choice as soon as it was delivered- these scallops were enormous. Finishing four of them was almost a feat- but absolutely necessary, as the smooth, salty, buttery meat is something I don't enjoy often enough. Each perfectly grilled piece was topped with a little hat of the same basil pesto we sampled with our bread- just enough to add flavor without overwhelming the centerpiece. The addition of some grilled vegetables was welcome, with smoky asparagus, charred red bell pepper, and thick-cut yellow squash rounding out the plate.

Even though our stomachs were reaching capacity, I insisted on ordering dessert (and a decaf cappuccino might have slipped in there as well). The "lemon-scented" Panna Cotta seemed appealing to both of us, but ended up the only disappointment of the night ($8.95). Clearly made well in advance, the dessert is served in a chilled glass indicative of a long sit in the refrigerator. While it was a beautiful display, it also seemed a bit of a cheat- instead of using a mold, the gelatinous dessert was made directly in the glass. The creamy panna cotta was layered with what can only be described as Jell-O. Cherry? Strawberry? Either way, it reminded me of staying home sick as a child- not the best memory to be induced. We didn't make it halfway through, even with our attempts to pick through the red layers to get to the white.

Overall, the dinner was a wonderful experience, made even better by the fact that we didn't have to worry about the bill. The food was simple, but (mostly) well-prepared and flavorful. While the prices seemed a little bit much, the service and eats are high-quality. Plus, I can understand that a lot of the price comes down to the location of the restaurant- and I'm sure Varalli pays a pretty penny in rent. I'd recommend the spot for a pre-theater crowd that wants good, classic Italian food- there are always plenty of people who aren't interested in the latest food trends!

Varalli
231 S. Broad Street

Corn Pancakes with Berry Sauce

2012-02-04T17:04:00.002-05:00

You know you're reading Two Eat Philly when you see another pancake recipe. Since we haven't posted one in awhile, it was time to continue the trend. Once in awhile (particularly in winter), we like to bring back a childhood favorite- corn-based pancakes. We loved corn pancakes so much, we begged our dad to make them every Sunday, even though he'd have to make regular pancakes for the rest of the family (apparently some people don't love corn as much as we do?).

The one problem with corn pancakes is the difficulty in forcing water into a coarse meal. I recently tried a recipe that involved combining coarse meal and boiling water, and while it was quick, it still had a grainy texture (fine by us, but we imagine most others wouldn't love it). In my second recent attempt, I used a different technique of soaking the meal for an hour before cooking up the cakes- and they were perfect. What made them extra special, though, was the warm berry sauce we made as an alternative to maple syrup. I could eat a stack of corn pancakes plain or with a little butter, but a thick, tart berry sauce lent it more of a special breakfast feel.

Cornmeal Pancakes (adapted from Food Network)
Serves 4

1 cup coarse cornmeal (I used this kind)
1 1/3 cup flour (all-purpose or whole wheat both work fine)
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
3/4 tsp baking soda
1/3 tsp salt
2 Tbsp sugar
1 egg + 1 egg white (or flax substitute)
2.5-3 cups milk of choice
2 Tbsp canola oil

This recipe does require a bit of pre-planning. About an hour before you want to begin cooking your pancakes, put together the batter. First, mix all of the dry ingredients together (cornmeal through sugar).

Once well combined, add the remaining ingredients (using only 2.5 cups of milk) and mix until no large clumps remain. The batter might seem slightly liquidy, but the cornmeal will soak up some of that while it rests. Since I didn't use eggs, I felt fine leaving it on the counter while I ran a few errands. It should sit for an hour, but you could probably also leave it in the refrigerator overnight with good results. Once it's done "incubating," you can add an additional 1/2 cup of milk if it seems too thick (although in our house, there is no such thing).

Pre-absorbtion

When I returned, I still had some time before pancake production began, so I started on the berry sauce. Since it's currently the dead of winter, I haven't been buying berries, but Trader Joe's makes an amazing frozen berry mix that includes big, fat cherries (side note: it's amazing in smoothies!).

Warm Berry Sauce
Serves 6 (as a topping)

1.5 cups frozen berries (and/or cherries)
juice of 1/2 lemon
zest of 1/2 lemon
2 Tbsp. sugar
1/8 tsp salt
1.5 Tbsp cornstarch
3 Tbsp cold water

This sauce is crazy easy- almost as easy as homemade cranberry sauce (which is frighteningly easy). Place the first five ingredients into a saucepan over medium heat and stir occasionally. The berries should release liquid and begin to make a sauce. I helped them out a bit by breaking up the bigger ones with the back of my spoon.

After five minutes of simmering, you'll want to add the cornstarch. The goal of the cornstarch is to thicken the sauce- just as you would add it to a meat-based gravy. As I was getting it out of the cabinet, J reminded me not to make the fatal mistake of adding cornstarch directly to the mix. Instead, stir the cornstarch and cold water together until well dissolved (no clumps!), and then pour this mixture into the sauce. It seems counterintuitive to add additional liquid when you want to thicken the sauce, but adding the cornstarch directly will form terrible clumps. Mix the sauce well, and continue simmering for an additional five minutes.

The final product is warm and sweet, with the consistency a combination of syrup and jelly. It's easy to pour or spoon over pancakes, but won't run everywhere or make the cakes soggy.

If you are averse to seeds, you could strain the mix, but you'd then also lose the small pieces of berries still present in the sauce (my favorite part!). Without the addition of a ton of extra sugar, it's not overly sweet, but it was perfect for the almost savory corn pancakes. It's also a great addition to plain yogurt, oatmeal, or even over toast.

These would make a great central dish for a group breakfast or brunch, but are easy enough to whip up on a whim- you might even have all of the ingredients in your pantry already!

Fork

2012-01-30T21:02:00.000-05:00

We typically try to avoid Restaurant Week in Center City- not a great deal, rushed service, limited options, and so on. However, it always happens to fall around our birthday, so we embraced the lunch option and organized a group celebration down in Old City. Fork is a "New American" restaurant that has been a stable force on Market Street for over ten years. They preempted the hyper-local/seasonal trend and actually change their menus almost daily to reflect what is available. This means that even the pre-established RW menu that we'd perused online had a few changes by the time we made it down.

Source

The space is elegant and simple, but we were led down a long, narrow hallway to a private dining room which was a special surprise. I suppose they thought we might be a loud, obnoxious group- our waitress seemed a little bummed when none of us ordered anything to drink. The service was excellent- our three courses stretched out for an appropriate two hours and water glasses were consistently refilled.

We all ordered from the pre-set menu which had three appetizer options, four entrees, and one dessert (one!? really?), although the regular brunch menu was also available. I started with the sweet potato soup- a thick and creamy, slightly sweet puree topped with another dollop of cream and a few bacon sprinkles. I thought the soup played mostly on its sweet notes but my boyfriend claimed it had an Indian spice component. Regardless, it was hearty and satisfying.

A ordered the salad option- a pickled beet salad complete with huge chunks of multiple beet varietals, turnips, and raw cauliflower and radishes. Pinches of creamy goat cheese, a sprinkle of arugula, and a flourish of thick golden beet puree decorated the salad. The beets had a great softened texture which contrasted the crunchy radishes- although the raw vegetables were a bit of a surprise.

The last option was great for any veggie-phobes in the group- beignets with cranberry compote. Three airy puffs of fried dough were sprinkled with powdered sugar and embedded in a thick, tart cranberry sauce. Both the density and the quantity of the compote seemed out of proportion to the fluffy doughnuts- difficult to use as a topping or spread.

The most popular entree was definitely the short rib sandwich- a thick pile of braised meat pressed in between slices of grilled ciabatta. Crumbles of blue cheese were optional- I personally thought the flavor of the cheese overpowered the tender beef. Crisp, salty fries completed the plate- a perfect mid-day dish for the meat and potatoes type.

Since so many people were ordering the sandwich, I decided to be a little different and chose the most breakfast-y item on the menu. A thick patty of egg was folded over pale slices of smoked salmon, a few tendrils of purple onion, and more thick pinches of the most pillowy goat cheese. Because the eggs were cooked separately, the texture of the omelet was a little bit chewy- I prefer my omelets to have a little more cohesion and incorporation of everything in each bite. Home fries had a nice crispiness, but for some reason the elegance of the dishes and place settings made them seem a little sad.

There was also a pumpkin and chestnut risotto topped with pea shoots- a nice change from the typical mushroom risotto offered up for vegetarians. Apparently the chestnuts were practically nonexistent, but the risotto had a rich, earthy flavor that A likened to roasted corn. At first sight, the portion seemed a bit meager, but as a lunch entree the lightness was appreciated.

The one option for dessert seemed a little like an afterthought- it makes sense that they need something easy and quick, but the flourless chocolate cake with vanilla-orange ice cream was sloppily plated. The ice cream was melted across the plate, pooling around the cube of fudgy cake. I'm typically anti-chocolate cake (too boring), but the density and thick ganache icing gave the cake a richness that was undeniable. Conversely, I am a proponent of plain vanilla ice cream, so the melted Creamsicle slush wasn't my favorite.

The Restaurant Week aspect of this meal was definitely limiting- I would have ordered a completely different meal had I gone a la carte. However, the overall experience was fantastic- the personal service of the private dining room made it feel much more celebratory. Everyone seemed pleased with the meal and it essentially worked out to everyone getting a free dessert thanks to the $20 prix fixe format. I'd love to make it back for dinner- the location, menu, and atmosphere make it seem like a prime date spot!

Fork
306 Market Street

HubBub Coffee

2012-01-26T21:22:00.002-05:00

Even though this is a food blog, we have to admit: we have a thing for coffee too. Ending a good meal with a quality cappuccino, savoring a single-origin brew at Elixr- even gearing up for a long run or race with a big cup of steaming hot caffeine- coffee is something we enjoy in many forms. While we don't drink it every day, sometimes you just have one of those days, where all you need is a jolt of energy to get yourself going. You know what I'm talking about. Unfortunately, our workplaces don't give us a great variety of choices in terms of picking up a good cup of coffee- sorry, ABP, but your coffee kind of sucks.

A couple of years ago, I stumbled upon the latest and greatest (at the time) food truck phenomena on Penn's campus, HubBub Coffee- just a few blocks from my lab, and brewing my personal favorite Stumptown beans. If you've never tried this Portland-based coffee, you should search it out.

Owned and operated by a Penn grad, the truck has been sadly closed for the past.. year?.. or so, but recently we received word that it was rejoining food truck society (we asked the owner what happened, apparently he's been away attending graduate school). Of course, I needed to go ASAP. The truck sits adjacent to the bridge over 38th Street at Locust (which ironically happens to be immediately next to a Penn-operated Starbucks AND Au Bon Pain), and is hard to miss- it's big and bright red.

The menu is actually pretty extensive for a coffee shop run out of a truck, offering a number of espresso -based drinks as well as lots of options for tea drinkers. Their long list of cold drinks makes me think it would be even more popular in the summer months.

I ordered a cappuccino, which comes in a single size- a little on the small side, but it packs a punch ($3). The beans used on this particular day (I think they rotate through different Stumptown roasts) were a mix from Africa, Indonesia, and Central America, and "Hair Bender" is a well-deserved name for the assortment. While this wasn't the all-time best cappuccino I've ever had (Bodhi gets those honors), it's hands down the best one available in University City. Strong, smooth, and full of flavor, the beans don't lose the war to the steamed milk.

We also got a cup of regular coffee (available in Little or Big), a good deal at $1.50 (even watered down WaWa coffee can be more than that- yep, I'm a coffee snob). The "Little" seeemed on par size-wise with a medium at that coffee shop that rhymes with Smarbucks. It was interesting comparing the flavors of the espresso based drinks to the drip coffee- even though I believe they're made from the same beans, the regular brew was so much smoother (not in a good or bad way). Served with a touch of cream (at our request), it wasn't scorchingly hot which made it dangerously drinkable. Dangerous? Yes- you definitely don't want to gulp this down because it's just too darn good. AND it packs a caffeine punch that you might want to apply slowly.

We're pretty pumped to have HubBub back in business, and while it's still a special treat to skip out of lab for 20 minutes to grab some coffee, you can bet we'll be doing it from time to time! We're hoping they also add back some baked goods to their menu, since they originally served locally baked croissants and muffins. If you live or work in the University City area and drink coffee, do yourself a favor and stop by. They're currently open 7AM-1PM Monday through Wednesday and will add extended hours (and more days of the week) once the weather perks up.

HubBub Coffee
38th and Locust
track them on Twitter!

Ten Stone

2012-01-23T20:54:00.003-05:00

Source

It's been fun to watch how much Penn has changed since we graduated in 2008- new places to live, new places to eat, and now- with the opening of Penn Park- new places to play. They've even made it winter-friendly with the addition of "the Bubble"- an enclosed soccer field, free of ice and snow. A few friends started playing in a soccer league this past weekend so we stopped by to check out the space and half-heartedly follow the game (sorry guys...).

We wanted to grab dinner somewhere between the park and home, but options are rather limited on that stretch of South Street. Thankfully, we slipped into one of the last tables at Ten Stone, a cute and inviting neighborhood pub complete with pool table and all the current basketball games on TV.

Source

Service was a little spotty- they seemed to be a bit short-staffed- but we were always able to flag down our waitress when we needed her. We quickly placed an order for something warm- the hot crab dip ($11). Served with a generous amount of tri-color tortilla chips, the dip comes in a toasty crock pot fresh from under the broiler.

I can't say I'm a huge fan of the browned cheese skin that stretched across the top of the dip, but it encapsulated a cream cheese-based dip that was surprisingly good. With visible chunks of crab meat, pickled jalapeno peppers, chopped artichokes, and bits of red and green bell peppers, the combination of ingredients really came together to make for a much higher quality appetizer than I was expecting. It was also incredibly satisfying- a much larger portion than the three of us could finish off.

The rest of the casual menu is comprised of mostly salads and sandwiches, so A and I split one of each. On a previous visit several years ago, A had ordered the grilled ham-and-cheese sandwich ($9). It's telling that it's still on the menu all this time later- no real effort to make something new, or maybe more of a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" mentality... This sandwich leans me toward the latter- a few layers of thinly sliced, salty Virginia ham and tomato are melted underneath a layer of Swiss cheese and sandwiched inside a (thankfully unsalted) soft pretzel. A thin and super sweet honey mustard glaze smothers the top surface of the sandwich- it might even have been likened to being dipped in a vat of the stuff. It errs on the side of overwhelming, but in an enjoyable way.

We tried to balance the sandwich out with a salad- choosing the aptly name "Kitchen Sink" salad ($12). Lots of chopped romaine is tossed with a mix of vegetables- tomato, cucumber, avocado- as well as proteins- hard-boiled egg, pepperoni, and grilled shrimp. The dressing is listed as a roasted tomato basil ranch, but tasted more like a basic creamy peppercorn. While the salad did seem to be 90% lettuce, it was plenty to split between the two of us. A also thought the shrimp should have been served warm, but considering we were eating at a bar (and not a "gastropub"), these complaints didn't prevent us from enjoying the opportunity for some fresh veggies.

A's fiance had a hard time choosing between the burger and the flank steak panini- we convinced him to go for the latter ($11). Slices of medium-pink flank steak are partnered with bacon and melted gruyere, pressed between slices of a thick bread that toasted well- soft on the inside but with a crispy crust. Horseradish mayo adds a spicy undertone to accentuate the juicy steak. Sandwiches are served with fries (nothing special) or a side salad.

With the growing population of casual restaurants taking bar food up a few notches, it's sort of nice to see a place stick to more of a classic American menu. However, that doesn't mean this is just a boring place to get wings and burgers- they definitely have some interesting and well-executed options, while maintaining a friendly and very approachable neighborhood atmosphere.

Ten Stone
21st & South Street

Pesto: No Basil Required

2012-01-19T18:47:00.000-05:00

It seems that food critics and regular reviewers like ourselves often look for one thing when judging a chef's handiwork: originality. Sure, it's great to produce the BEST burger, or the BEST spaghetti, but it is way more fun to find something delicious and unique. And, since there is a lot to be said for the comfort of regularity, we tend to gravitate towards twists on the norm. Take a dish we all know and love and add a special touch, and it's likely to be a hit. On that note, I recently found myself making a pesto with spinach and parsley- a bit off the beaten path of basil, parmesan, and pine nuts.

Pesto forms a great base for a variety of dishes, from pastas or toppings for meat or fish, to stuffings or dips. They're creamy, richly flavorful, and their finely processed form lends them an ability to permeate. This past week, I made two different forms of pesto which both strayed from the classic recipe, but inspired me to think of pesto as much more versatile.

Both recipes were found via TasteSpotting, and adapted a bit. First up, a broccoli based sauce!

Broccoli Pesto: inspired by The Flour Sack
makes about 1 cup

2-3 cups chopped, loosely packed broccoli
1/2 lemon, juice and zest
1-2 ounces parmesan, shredded/grated
2 small cloves garlic
1 Tbsp. olive oil
salt + pepper

The great thing about pesto is how easy it is to make. For this version, there is a short cooking step, but usually it's just shove in your food processor and go. However, even for this one, as long as you can boil water, you're halfway there. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add your broccoli florets. While they're getting nice and soft, add the other ingredients directly to your food processor. I used a mini processor, just because it's easier to clean and I wasn't making a gallon of pesto.

Let the broccoli boil for 5-7 minutes until completely cooked through and bright green. You can alternately steam or microwave your broccoli, and you don't even need to use the fresh stuff- frozen is more than fine. Once it's done, drain well, reserving 1/2 cup of the water in case you need to thin it out a bit. Add the broccoli to the food processor and blend until everything is very finely chopped and well incorporated (you may have to add the veggies in two or three batches).

Broccoli Pesto

We incorporated it into a pasta dish with white beans, more broccoli, and some pan-seared shrimp. It actually had a very subtle broccoli flavor, and I imagine if you added an additional flavor or two (basil, parsley, walnuts, or roasted red peppers to name a few) you'd be able to sneak this onto any picky palate's plate. We actually love broccoli though, so enjoyed eating it in multiple forms all in one dish.

Our second batch of pesto was used in an entirely different way, although I imagine it would also go well in a Mexican inspired pasta salad. This time, the base for the sauce was swiss chard, a beautiful green that we don't eat enough of (I'm not sure winter is its best season). Chard has a much more subtle flavor than any herb you might typically use in a pesto, and is similar to spinach.

Swiss Chard Pesto: ~~stolen~~ adapted from Tasty Kitchen
makes about one cup

5 large chard leaves, stems discarded and roughly chopped
1 jalapeno (seeded or not-- depends on how hot you like it!)
1/3 cup pumpkin seeds (no shells)
2 small garlic cloves
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1/2 large lime, zest and juice
2 Tbsp. hot sauce (I used Frank's Red Hot)

No cooking required here- chard is fairly delicate and has great flavor raw (unlike thicker greens like collards and turnip greens). Just chop it up and stuff it in the food processor with the other ingredients.

You may need to add additional olive oil or water if your pesto is too thick or hard to blend. My processor didn't love the pumpkin seeds, so you may want to add them slowly at the end if you have a temperamental machine. The final product should be fairly thick, if you use it in the same way that we did. For a salad, you could certainly thin it out even further.

Since I loved the way I saw it served in my inspiration post, we did the same-- as a topping to sweet potato and black bean tacos. It actually acted in place of guacamole, with a texture that made it easier to spread over the entire taco, as well as providing a nuttier, earthier heat. The prominent note was lime, but the quantity of juice and zest could definitely be reduced. To give it even more of a guacamole inspired flavor, a handful of cilantro would work great.

This little pesto "experiment" definitely changed my own definition of the stuff- you can almost mix anything up together and call it pesto. These two renditions will likely be used again, since they went perfectly with their respective dishes. As always, we invite you to share your own crazy (or classic!) pesto recipes in the comments.

Circles

2012-01-16T20:18:00.001-05:00

There's something about a warm bowl of Thai curry that is absolutely perfect for a cold winter night- and we've definitely had quite a few of those recently. Rounding out a month of fun dinners with a friend home for the (very long) holidays, we decided to end it on a new-to-all-of-us spot, the relatively recent Circles in South Philly. Noted as "Contemporary Asian," I would probably call this "Typical Thai," although there are a lot of fun deviations from the norm.

The corner spot is long and narrow, with the majority of the tables clustered near the front. It sits adjacent to a separate storefront that specializes in the same dishes, just packed up for take-out. We've heard that the kitchen is shared, with food shuttled in from one store to the next, but we saw no evidence of that. We made a reservation (couldn't pass up 1000 points on OpenTable), which almost seemed ridiculous for such a casual place, but we'd recommend it.

The service was phenomenal, with two guys running the entire place with ease. After lots of discussion, we came to an agreement to split a number of apps to start our meal. J had her eye on the Tofu and Corn Fritters ($6.95), which sounded promising- can't go wrong with anything involving the deep fryer and corn. However, these little corn cakes surprised me- I expected a breaded texture throughout, but instead we were met with an oozing center of corn and pureed tofu, surrounded by a flash fried, panko-based batter.

The two accompanying sauces were also great- particular the curry tomato compote, a thick sauce with chunks of tomato and a few tiny pieces of crab meat mixed in. The "citrus aioli" option seemed like a classic sweet chili Thai sauce, good, but a bit too thin to really stick to the cake. It was also not as good of a flavor match as the acidic tomatoes were for the sweet corn.

J also really wanted to try a salad- Circles has a really nice selection, unlike many Thai restaurants- and settled on the Calamari Salad ($7.95). Unfortunately, besides the generous portion of grilled calamari (both tentacles and large rings), she felt the salad was far too heavy on the green and red onions. While they were marinated a bit in the thick, sweet, lime-scented dressing, if you ate this serving as is, you'd have a serious case of onion breath. A few strips of red pepper helped save the dish, but the advertised-yet-absent mint and cilantro would have been much appreciated as well.

We also chose two Thai classics to share, starting with the Pan Fried Dumplings ($5.95). A note on portions- these were all great to share with our small group, and we felt they were reasonably priced. The dumplings had a thick, chewy wrapper, toasted to a crisp on one side, encasing a little lump of spiced ground pork. A soy based sauce helped liven them up, but I felt like these were too boring. I was outvoted though, as this was a favorite amongst the other two.

Our second classic was the Spring Rolls ($3.95), a perfectly executed version of the dish we've all probably had a thousand times- chopped veggies and chicken encased in an eggroll-like shell and fried. They were tasty little treats- and again, great for sharing- as they were each cut in half, serving as little scoops for the sweet and sour sauce. If you're going for original, we'd recommend the Tofu + Corn Fritters, but if you just want a nicely done piece of Americanized Thai, get the Spring Rolls.

Our friend couldn't start his meal without his favorite Thai soup, the Tom Yum ($3.95). Richly scented with lemongrass, the soup was more of a broth, flavored with galangal (similar to ginger) and kafir lime, and filled with mushrooms, onion, and chicken. While flavorful, it could have used a heavier hand with the spice. A hefty portion for a small price, you could easily order a plate of spring rolls and this huge bowl of soup and walk out satisfied for under $10!

After an appropriate interlude, we were greeted with our entrees- which to me, is where all the excitement lies. I may have played a role in convincing J to order the Eggplant Stinger, a dish full of sauteed vegetables, and of course, lots of soft eggplant, all stir fried in a dark sweet and spicy sauce. She added shrimp to her portion, as well as a side of brown rice, for a total of $11.95. Choose chicken, beef, pork, or tofu, and stick with the free white rice, and again you'll pay under $10- a steal for such quality eats. Beware, however, of the large quantity of bamboo within- J isn't a huge fan (weird) of the woody vegetable, so she ended up picking around it. While she asked for a "Medium" spice level, it hardly hit Mild on our spice-o-meter.

Eggplant Stinger with Shrimp

The Pad Thai came highly recommended by Yelpers and bloggers alike, so we were happy that our friend decided to order it. To mix it up a bit, he chose to try one of the Pad Thai "specialties," the Duck Pad Thai ($14.95). It was served on an enormous platter, making the heap of noodles seem deceptively small, and we immediately wondered at the large pieces of flattened, battered-and-fried.. duck. What? Our past experiences with Pad Thai had us under the belief that the protein is incorporated within the dish, not laid scattered on top. Even so, if the duck had been of the soft, pan-seared variety, it would have been fine. Instead, each piece was deep-fried to oblivion, leaving just a chewy piece of meat behind. The rest of the dish was intensely flavorful, and oddly, although also ordered at a "Medium" spice level, had a mind numbing heat (in a good way, but it still represents a lack of consistency). Certainly the best Pad Thai I've ever tasted, but we all thought a "specialty" should actually live up to its name.

I stuck with my forever-and-ever favorite, the Red Curry. As always, I ordered it with tofu, but jumped at the chance to have brown rice ($11.95 + $1 charge for the rice). The sauce was extremely rich and creamy, with a heavy dose of coconut milk, which balanced out the heat from my requested "Spicy!". The thick triangles of tofu were battered and fried, giving it an extra grip on the sauce with each trip to my mouth. Lots of sweet basil, bamboo, and barely-blanched green pepper each presented different textures and flavors to prevent any monotony, but even without them, I probably would have wiped up the entire bowl.

The brown rice seemed to be a multi-grain variety, with a range of sizes and brown hues throughout. The nutty flavor was lovely on its own, but was easily overwhelmed by the curry broth- fine by me, since I could happily drown in the stuff. The rice worked better with the eggplant dish, as the thick, sticky sauce could coat each piece while still letting the whole grain flavor and texture shine through.

When reminiscing about our meal a few days after, J made the exact same comment that she did regarding our recent trip to Jasmine Rice (another Thai spot in Center City)- while she enjoyed it, she's just not a huge fan of Thai food. I, on the other hand, am a sucker for the stuff, and can't wait to find a reason to return. The option to take-out or have the same exact food delivered to my door is also quite tempting!

Circles
1514 Tasker Street

Birra

2012-01-13T08:00:00.000-05:00

We're not shy about our love for South Philly, especially the bustling corridor of Passyunk Avenue. Recently the Ave has seen a few new restaurants open up, inviting us for a return visit. Birra, a new pizza place at Passyunk's intersection with Morris Street, showed a lot of promise thanks to quite a bit of drool-inducing press coverage.

Source

Unfortunately, the restaurant doesn't take reservations. After our arrival at 7:30 on a busy weekend evening, even more unfortunate was the host's complete lack of hosting skills. Aimlessly wandering around the restaurant to check on diners' progress, giving me a vague estimate of "about thirty minutes," and then blaming a group's "second round of espresso" for our over 75 minute wait is somewhat inexcusable.

The extended wait gave us plenty of time to check out the menu and make some decisions. One of our friends is lactose intolerant, so the white pizzas were out of the question, but we ended up choosing two red pizzas, three "plates" and a panini to split amongst the four of us. We skipped over the antipasti section- nothing caught our eye. Thankfully the pizzas don't take a whole lot of time to make, so they came out first. Obviously we were pretty hungry at this point, so it's no surprise that the first dish we ate was the unanimous favorite- the margherita pizza ($10).

2/3 cheese

The pizzas seemed larger than the advertised 12", so they were great for sharing. The simple margherita showcases the crust (thin, crispy, boring) and the sauce (perfect balance of sweet and acidic, well-seasoned to enhance the robust tomato flavor), as well as thin circles of mozzarella and a few pieces of shriveled basil. Fire-roasted dried tomatoes and a drizzle of olive oil provided the pie with a unique flavor profile. When I eat pizza, I'm usually excited to get through the middle to the outer crust, but in this case, the sauce is boss.

Our second pizza found it's home atop the double-decker pizza stand, and we dug in to our more "interesting" selection- the three little pigs ($18). Three types of pork- thin capicola, thick cubes of fatty pancetta, and chunks of roasted porchetta- are smothered in mozzarella and topped with a few sprinkles of fresh parsley. This pizza sounds awesome, right? Sadly, all I could taste was grease and salt. So much salt. A had to pick off all of the pancetta because it was the worst offender- explosions of chewy salt-cured fat. My new-found love- Birra's sauce- was completely lost under this mess.

Out next were the meatballs al forno ($11)- three fist-sized balls of beef and veal topped with (not enough of) their sweet and tangy "gravy" and a shave of parmesan. These 'balls have a velvety smooth texture, melting in your mouth without a hint of breadcrumb glue- just a few very finely chopped onions. However, we all agreed that the flavor was just sort of... missing. Perhaps because our tongues had essentially just licked a block of salt? Quite possible. A few more herbs or a different combination of cuts of meat might help, but I'm no meatball expert. Again, a promising dish that fell a little flat.

Nonni's brisket sandwich ($9) was another beast of a plate- two generous chunks of Italian bread spread thin with a pepperoncini jam and stuffed with chopped brisket. The large amount of slow-cooked meat and bread without much of a buffer made the sandwich a little dry. Coincidentally, a cute pitcher of jus is served for just such a situation, but a splash of the brown gravy returned us to Salt City. The bread was good- fluffy and chewy the way I like it- but the sandwich was nothing special.

During our long wait, I smelled and saw the mussels ($11) and made a special request for the steaming shellfish. Again, a very large portion (this restaurant definitely caters to those who like to share). We all had at least 7 or 8 mussels, dipped into the buttery Peroni sauce flavored by garlic, more of those roasted and dried tomatoes, and skinny dried chili peppers. They definitely hit all of the necessities for a great mussel sauce. More of the delicious bread- this time with a nicely toasted crust- was perfect for dredging through the sauce. Certainly still on the salty side of the spectrum, but much more balanced by the other components. A note: curiosity killed the cat- the dried peppers are not meant to be eaten.

Our last plate was the lemon oregano chicken- a simple plate of a breast and a leg (skin-on slipping off) served over broccoli rabe. The host served this plate to us, and somewhat redeemed himself by pointing out that a piece of the sliced meat had fallen away from the rest- instead of questioning our photography he actually helped out with the food styling! A and I eagerly gobbled up some of the rapini- the only true vegetables of the evening- and enjoyed the mild bitterness offset by a bit of the lemon-scented jus. The chicken itself was reminiscent of the meatballs- unbelievably decadent texture, absolutely some of the most well-cooked chicken I've ever tasted. The lemon flavor was also pervasive down to the bone, maintaining a surprising intensity that was unfortunately a bit one-note. Oregano needs to play a more prominent role to keep it from being a chicken flavored lemon.

At this point, we were full to the point of bursting- our late-evening hunger levels had us eating everything save for a few slices of the pork pizza. However, a super salty meal needs a super sweet counterpart, so we decided to split a dessert- always a good way to end dinner. Only a few options for the evening, we chose a sticky toffee chocolate pudding cake ($8). Two wedges of crumbly, slightly dry cake were embedded in a thick and sticky pool of caramel and topped with shaved white chocolate and a small, melted pool of vanilla ice cream. Though the cake itself was pretty bland, I'm a sucker for salted caramel, and Birra delivered- it was like melted butterscotch. At this point, it was hard to appreciate anything salty, but I still have to acknowledge that the sauce on this is pretty stellar. Over some plain vanilla ice cream? Yes, please. Hold the cake.

A few days later, I was reminiscing on the meal with one of our friends and we both agreed that (other than the one pizza), there was nothing unpleasant about the meal. I just felt like I was quickly going from one dish to the next, waiting for something to really excite my tastebuds. Maybe the fact that the margherita came out first set me up for disappointment, but that's really what this meal was- a long and salty stream of dishes that just weren't as good as I wanted them to be.

Birra
1700 E Passyunk Ave

Corn and Crab Pudding

2012-01-10T21:28:00.000-05:00

I'm amused by the correlation between age and Christmas gifts. As a kid, you're so excited for Santa to bring you the latest toy, as you get a little older maybe you ask your parents for clothes or some sort of gadget, and then once you're an "adult," the gifts tend to be more functional. As long as I can remember, when deciding on a gift to get our dad, we usually think of two things: 1) books, and 2) kitchen/cooking related items. For the past few years, this has slowly become us: last year we were gifted a food processor, and this year, a blender (I sadly killed our cheap one a few months back...).

My mom also picked up (and surprised me with) some mini ramekins, which are one of those things I've eyed for a long time but never purchased- and aren't those items the BEST gifts?

And they even match our kitchen!

And then the question arose-- what exactly do you MAKE in these? After some extensive internet browsing, I realized a lot of the recipes intended for ramekins are for dessert, but I also realized that non-ramekin recipes can easily be tweaked for these little guys. I wanted something that could work as a side dish at dinner, and decided on a twist on corn pudding. Technically, two twists: corn pudding is traditionally a mix of creamed corn, eggs, butter and milk, and I wanted something a little lighter. I also wanted to add something to make it slightly more substantial (Counteractive? Perhaps.). Thus, mini Corn-Crab Puddings were born.

Corn and Crab Pudding
Serves 4

1 cup milk (I used plain almond milk, since it was what I had)
1/3 cup cornmeal
1 tablespoon sugar
1/8 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. cayenne pepper (or more, if you like it hot)
1 egg
1 egg white OR 1/2 tablespoon flax meal + 1 1/2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons butter, melted
1/2 tsp. baking powder
1 can (6 ounces) crab meat, drained
3/4 cup fresh or frozen sweet corn kernels

Preheat your oven to 450. In a small saucepan, bring the milk to a boil. Prepare the following four ingredients (cornmeal through cayenne pepper). I used polenta, which is a coarsely ground cornmeal. I like cornbreads with a rough grain- if you like a smooth cornbread/polenta, go with a fine to medium grind cornmeal.

Cornmeal, sugar, salt, cayenne

Once the milk is boiling, add these items to the pan, give it a good stir and allow it to simmer for five minutes. Keep an eye on it, making sure it doesn't boil too high, and stir occasionally. When it's done, you'll know- it should have a thickened consistency. Remove it from the heat and let it cool for about ten minutes, until it's no longer steaming and you can comfortably touch it.

In a separate small bowl, combine your egg(s) and/or egg substitutes (ground flaxseeds for us), as well as the melted butter (be sure to cool it slightly before adding it-- you don't want scrambled eggs!) and baking powder. Once this is well combined, stir in your corn kernels. I used frozen sweet corn from Trader Joe's, which worked wonderfully since it is most definitely not corn season right now. Stir the whole mix into the cornmeal.

Last but not least, the best part of the dish- crab meat. While you could keep these vegetarian by adding slightly more corn, the crab meat turns them into a hybrid of corn muffin and crab cake, which is what makes these special. I don't often cook with crab, so while I'm sure I'm committing some sort of crab crime here, I again turned to my friend Trader Joe for an inexpensive, easy alternative to fresh crab meat.

Gently incorporate the meat into the batter- you don't want to destroy any of the small lumps. Plus, overmixing is never a good thing (something I've learned a little too slowly over the years). Finally, butter your (1/2 cup) ramekins and carefully spoon in the batter until each is full.

If you don't have ramekins, don't worry-- you can still make this! You can bake the entire batch in a souffle dish or a square baking pan, although you may need to double or triple the recipe depending on the size of the dish.

Transfer the ramekins to the oven, and bake for about 35 minutes, or until the edges are lightly browned and a toothpick comes out clean. Many of the recipes I've seen have the pudding bake at a lower temperature for an hour, but this will only increase the time until you can dig in- never my preference.

Remove the ramekins from the oven and serve immediately. If, like me, you're busy plating the rest of the meal, a cooling rack works well until you can comfortably handle the ceramic bowls.

The 1/2 cup ramekins were the perfect serving size for a side dish, but they'd also work well as an appetizer for a longer meal. If you have larger ramekins, these could even be altered a bit to serve as a main course (perhaps a bit of chopped spinach, broccoli, and bacon?).

I served them with roast chicken (my first attempt at a whole bird- incredibly easy and extra delicious) and asparagus. While I wouldn't tackle all of these on a busy weeknight, it was fun to put in the extra effort for a special Sunday night meal.

I served the puddings directly in their ramekins, but once they're cool, you can easily remove them for a portable snack. The texture changes once cold- a bit firmer compared to the fluffy texture of the warm version. Both share the same slightly sweet flavor, attributed to both the sweet corn and the crab meat. The whole corn kernels give you something to bite into, while the coarse cornmeal holds it together and provides good texture.

I'm now kind of in love with making everything I can think of in little individual ceramic dishes, but so far this has been my favorite- a recipe that doesn't take much expertise, but is far more impressive than a simple side of cornbread. A fun mix of flavors from the deep South and the Mid-Atlantic, I'll definitely be making these again.

If you have a favorite ramekin recipe, please share!

Opa

2012-01-07T11:01:00.005-05:00

I've always been a little afraid of getting caught "cheating" on my favorite Greek restaurant, Kanella, which perhaps explains why it has taken us a little while to make it over to Philly's newest addition to the Greek scene- Opa. Open for almost a year now, it occupies a coveted spot in the "Midtown Village" area which is chock-full of good eats.

Advertising itself as serving a "modern" take on Greek food, the restaurant is airy and spacious- decorated with classic blue and white colors, wooden tables, and eye-catching lighting techniques. Tables line the perimeter, circling a rectangular, marble-topped bar. Elegant but still evoking a bit of Old World charm.

Source

Our waiter was on the stoic side, but the service was virtually flawless. Water glasses were refilled often from mismatching metallic or ceramic pitchers, again playing on the authentic Greek experience. We each started out with an appetizer, which came out as they were prepared. A's spinach croquettes ($8) were first up- a smooth, fried breading encasing a dense cheese and spinach mixture. A smoky paprika-tinted feta dip enhanced the contrast between crispy and cheesy. Nothing short of superb.

A's fiance ordered one of his staples- the fried kalamari ($10). Wide strips of squid and plenty of tentacles were very lightly fried and tossed in a cracked pepper and spice mixture, accompanied by a subtly spicy but cool and creamy red pepper and chili aioli. Again, a great textural contrast. My favorite part was the addition of large green olives and peppers to the mix- fried and spiced alongside the squid, imparting an almost imperceptible brine-y flavor to the whole dish.

The other two appetizers were salads- knowing my main dish was on the heavier side, I started with the winter salad ($10). Served warm, the arugula/butternut squash/quinoa base was mixed with sauteed apricots and dates and topped with slivered almonds. The dressing consisted primarily of vinegar, which sadly stripped a lot of the sweetness from the fruit while the heat of the salad caused the arugula to become soggy and stringy. The smear of smoky paprika yogurt was similar to that served beneath the spinach croquette, but I wasn't sure how to incorporate it into the salad. The portion size was also questionable- something that seems to be a common theme in Yelp reviews. I would recommend the Roasted Beet Salad instead, a much more generous pile of thickly sliced, multi-colored beets, fresh arugula, and crumbled feta.

1/4 sized salad?

Souvlakia skewers of chicken, pork, or vegetables are also available for $3. The veggie skewer contained a few tender cherry tomatoes, zucchini, peppers, and onion, all with a nice chargrilled appearance.

Our waiter offered to give us some time before our entrees came out, which was a nice change from the typical rushed dining experience. My rather light appetizer had me anticipating my entree- the Pastitsio ($15), essentially a fancy mac and cheese with the addition of ground beef and a few tomatoes. The pasta is long and tubular, super smooth with a nice bite. A bechamel and breadcrumb topping is insanely rich, and the whole mess is cheesy and salty- heavy winter comfort food at its finest. I would have appreciated a few more tomatoes to lighten it and provide a bit of a contrast to all that cheese and meat- towards the end, I just couldn't continue to barrage my palate with such intensity, and this isn't even a huge dish.

A complemented her fried app with a lighter entree- the tourlou ($13), a vegetarian stew of zucchini, large white beans, okra, and greens in a thin tomato broth, topped with a poached egg. Very simple- I thought the flavors were a little bland, and A thought it was missing an herbal element- but a decent option for those looking for a meat-free or healthier meal.

The bifteki burger ($13) also made its way to our table- a thick, feta stuffed beef patty served on a brioche bun with a little scoop of a simple tomato salad. Overly salted "oregano" fries were a bit stingy with their namesake herb. The chicken entree- consisting of a spice-rubbed chicken breast and a few pieces of cauliflower- seemed over-priced at $17.

A & I split a dessert, choosing the quintessential Greek baklava ($8). Layers of thin phyllo dough and honey encased finely chopped and sugar-drenched walnuts. I prefer the layers of baklava to soften and meld together, but the phyllo was extra crispy, the bottom layer a dark brown with hints of burnt sugar. The whole thing was also overly sweet and heavy on the cinnamon. We definitely enjoyed the small scoop of house-made fig ice cream, complete with large chunks of the chewy fruit.

The whole meal had an overall effect of "hit or miss"- a few disappointments (and some pricing/portion issues) were scattered among a few well-executed, unique renditions of traditional Greek dishes. I really enjoyed the environment and the dining experience as a whole- instead of cramming in as many diners as possible, the well-spaced tables kept noise levels down to a perfectly reasonable chatter. Despite the few downsides to the food, I certainly left with a positive attitude that would encourage me to return.

Opa <-- Annoying website warning.
1311 Sansom Street

Federal Donuts

2012-01-02T18:22:00.000-05:00

One day, many months ago, some friends and I began plotting a visit to a mysterious, rumored restaurant-to-be that would serve us top-notch donuts, fried chicken, and quality coffee- three of ~~our~~ everyone's favorite foods. After months of waiting, Federal Donuts finally opened. While trying to decide when to get down to 2nd and Federal, the truth started coming out- the restaurant sold out of everything. Every day. Often by 1PM. I won't lie- my desire to go slowly waned and I became somewhat bitter about it all. Why would you wave this in my face and then make it impossible to get?

Teeny tiny Source

Slowly, slowly, the restaurant became ever so slightly less busy (although some days are just as bad as opening week), and a friend and I decided to tempt fate and try our luck during the holiday week.

We walked through the doors at 12:15 and a very polite stranger gave us a necessary clue- get a number. 60 orders of chicken, every day, no more, no less, so you better get a number to claim yours. The tiny storefront was packed but I managed to weave my way up and get two numbers (one for me, one for him).. which just so happened to be #59 and #60. The last two orders. Thank you, God.

As we waited for our number to be called, we discussed the menu and what we would get. Federal Donuts literally only sells three things: donuts, coffee, and fried chicken. No sides, no specials, nothing else. But honestly, what else can you want? Since the place opens at 7AM (for the coffee + donuts crowd), they're often sold out of "Fancy Donuts" by lunchtime. Even though they listed six varieties for the day, they only had one available for us- Chocolate Spicy Peanut ($2).

The ordering process is a bit odd, but also logical. All of the fried chicken (four pieces per order) begins preparation the day before, with some sort of brine/soak. At midnight, an unfortunate employee comes in to begin the chicken's first dip in the deep fryer, for a long poach at a low temperature. The chicken is then dried on racks, to await the witching hour-- or, 11:45AM, when chicken orders begin.

Only a few orders left!

When your number is called, you still have a good amount of time before you actually get to eat. I'd definitely recommend coming hungry, but not hangry, since the total time from entrance to food can be about an hour. The lovely staff (literally, the cashier Blake was our BFF by the time we left!) takes your order and 1) your donuts are either bagged (Fancy) or fried (Hot), 2) your coffee is poured, 3) your chicken is plucked off the drying rack and back into the fryer, for a short fry at high heat.

Chicken options

Since we were the last order of the day, we snagged two of the six counter seats as the rest of the storefront slowly emptied out. Our first bite was our Fancy donut, since it needed no further prep. I know I can eat a lot, but just a note- the two of us split all of these. I simply ordered one of every donut available, which (thankfully?) was only four. The Chocolate Spicy Peanut converted us to Federal Donuts ~~worshippers~~ fans immediately. A soft cake donut (the base of all their donuts, I think?) was coated in a thick chocolate ganache and sprinkled with a peanut powder (with very little spice that I noticed).

The donut within was sublime- soft, fluffy, not dry in the least. The flavor was sweeter than anything I'd want to eat for breakfast, but perfect for a mid-day snack. After a few minutes, our hot donuts arrived, freshly made to order by the fun donut machine in the back. Each donut is tossed in it's respective coating, but the underlying flavor of the donuts remained the same. If you're looking for a lot of flavor variety here, you won't find it, but you also won't mind, since they'll still be the best donuts you've ever eaten.

Vanilla Lavender

Indian Cinnamon

Donuts to be demolished

After long last, our chicken orders were finished- leaving just us and one couple eating at the counter. The employees began wrapping things up, handing us free leftover donuts and making us extremely happy that our timing worked out so well (last chicken = no crowds, counter seating, free stuff, chats with the staff). The chicken comes with four pieces- usually a drumstick, a thigh, a breast, and a ... ? The wings are reserved for Sunday Wingday, so I'm not sure. However, we were told ahead of time that we might get two thighs instead of a drumstick-- more chicken? No problem.

There are two different preparation styles, dry and wet, both of which have two flavor options. I chose the dry "Harissa," and my friend chose the wet "Chile Garlic" flavor. The dry chicken has a hefty, crispy outer layer, exuding just enough grease for extra flavor. The pieces are sprinkled with a spice concoction (hence, harissa) that gives it a salty, spicy flavor- harissa traditionally includes red chili peppers, garlic, coriander, cumin, and caraway. Each piece was different, offering white or dark meat in varying thicknesses, giving it a little variety as I ate through the basket. The thick skin was stuck fast to the juicy, underlying meat, making each bite a mix of crunch and meat. It's perfect.

The half order is actually pretty hefty- if you're not that hungry, or don't want to eat such a gut-busting meal, I'd suggest sharing. I used my "I ran 10 miles today," excuse and plowed through the entire thing- and was full for the rest of the day.

I also traded one of my thighs for one of the chili-garlic, which was surprisingly different than my own dry version. The heavy dose of sauce changes the texture of the skin, making it more like that of a buffalo wing- less crispy and more dense. The chili gave it good heat, but not in a "I need milk" kind of way. Next time I go, I'll definitely have to find someone to split two orders with again- one of each sauce style- as now that I've tasted both, I can't imagine not having both!

For the measly price of $9 for an entire half chicken, you're also rewarded with two "sides" - some spicy Japanese-style pickles and a small, plain honey donut. The pickles were delicious, if not a bit random, but I love pickles so bring them on. Tangy, sweet and spicy, I almost wish they were slightly more abundant, but with all this food, I doubt I could have fit any more in.

Since I was rather donutted out, I saved my donut for later- apparently you can keep them for a day or so before they get stale. Nice to know, though, if you come in for chicken later in the day and they are completely out of other varieties, you'll at least get a token one with your order (and if you happen to be the last in the store, they'll probably push some more on you).

I also managed to score a free coffee, which I highly recommend getting (even if you have to pay the small price of $2 for it)- it's some of the best in the city. On our way out the door, we were sad to see the handmade written-on-a-paper-bag sign, announcing what nobody wants to see. However, we were quite thankful that we finally made it down to the hugely popular spot, and will definitely return in the future-- with our crowd-fighting faces on.

Federal Donuts
1219 S. 2nd Street
Note: Keep an eye on their Twitter feed the day you go-- announcements about availability are timely!

Sweet Cheeks Q

2011-12-30T13:21:00.001-05:00

Between finding a wedding caterer for A and taking a trip to Memphis to visit friends, it seems like we've been on a serious BBQ kick recently. I'm spending a few days in Boston- not a place I'd expect to find some good Texas barbecue, but my boyfriend vouched for a newly opened place near Fenway (opinion based on roommate leftovers).

The place was pretty busy on a weeknight, but we were offered seats at a large communal high-top table. They take a no-frills, down-home approach- wood paneling and a heavenly smoky aroma make up the decor, silverware and napkins are delivered in a tin can on the table, and drinks are served in mason jars. The menu is pretty straightforward- choose your meat, choose your sides, add a biscuit or a side of hush puppies. We did a little sauce tasting while we waited for our food- the regular is a lightly doctored tomato sauce (boring), the thin vinegar sauce is slightly sweet and has a good kick (if vinegar is your thing), but the hot sauce is the clear winner- a little sweat-inducing heat that balances the tomato and vinegar components well.

I ordered the simplest "tray" option (just one type of meat), opting for a half slab of the Berkshire pork ribs ($19). Sides are broken into two categories- choice of one each from hot and cold. Everything comes piled on a paper-lined silver tray, with "hot" sides steaming up a mug. Trays typically are served with a few slices of white bread, pickles, and onions (requisites for sandwich making) but we both subbed in one of their infamous biscuits ($1.50 extra, or $10 for 4).

I honestly didn't know where to start, so I dug in to the Cita's broccoli and cheese casserole. Whole chunks of lightly steamed broccoli are drenched in a thin cream-butter-and-cheese sauce and what seemed like toasty biscuit chunks for good measure. I liked that it was creamy like a soup but still maintained crunchy, satisfying bites of broccoli. My cold side was the farm salad- I wasn't expecting anything exciting here, but Sweet Cheeks brought their A-game: a flavorful combination of arugula, brussels sprouts, chopped hazelnuts, and purple grapes tossed in a barely there olive oil dressing and topped with shaved Pecorino Romano. Yes, I could eat that salad every day.

I haven't even gotten to the good part- the ribs. Six of 'em to a half-rack, with a brilliant red color and meaty ham-like texture. The meat isn't falling off the bone, but this provides a nice amount of chewiness. I was impressed with how much meat there was- I could only get through two of the smoke-infused ribs before calling it quits (so lame). Of note- I typically love my ribs slathered in sauce, but these guys were perfect as is.

My meat-loving boyfriend snagged the most classic meat options- pulled pork and brisket- ordering the double "Big Cheeks" tray: your choice of any two meats for $24. The brisket was unlike any I have ever experienced- thick slabs of marbled "Great Northern" beef that melt in your mouth. I'm used to chewing my brisket, but that's not necessary here. I was wary of the thick strip of fat across the top (and around the sides...) but this was butter, not gristle. As for the pork- I'm a bit of a pulled pork snob, but even this had me completely in awe of the Sweet Cheeks 'que techniques. The meat was shredded, tender, and with an incredibly concentrated meatiness. Most impressive is that this flavor comes entirely from the pork- they make it devoid of any sauce. A few drops of hot sauce amped up the heat without masking the smokiness.

The biscuits were another highlight- massive balls of buttery, flaky carbs with a crispy outer surface and pillow-y innards. Can't beat that.

We brought enough food home to eat again for dinner the next night- and everything was just as tasty as leftovers (trust me, you WILL have leftovers). Although the prices were a little higher than I'm used to paying, the quality (and quantity...) of each component of the tray completely justified any residual sticker-shock. The owners of this place really did their research well- though I've never had the "real thing," my boyfriend spent a summer in San Antonio and begrudgingly admits that Sweet Cheeks might top his list. It definitely tops mine.

Sweet Cheeks Q
Boston, MA

Sbraga

2011-12-26T11:04:00.001-05:00

To kick off the Christmas weekend, we made plans to celebrate with a good dinner out. With my parents visiting for the holidays, we wanted to choose a restaurant that would cater to a variety of palates and would offer a fun dining experience. Since there are seemingly three dozen new-ish spots open in town, we also decided to cross one of them off of our list, and settled on Sbraga. Even though we like Top Chef, we never considered Kevin (Season 7) one of our favorite contenders. However, he has quite a good reputation, and has been getting lots of good buzz since the opening of his first restaurant here in Philly.

Chef Sbraga works the kitchen seemingly nonstop Source

Prime time reservations were impossible to snag, so we ended up going a little later than I would have liked. The fixed price menu (either $110 for ten courses or $45 for four) is a bit of a novelty to us, but I actually really liked basing my decisions solely on what I was in the mood for, and not on price. While perusing the options, we were each served a massive flaky popover. Even though it's hollow, it's still a hefty start to the meal, and likely the best complimentary bread I've ever had-- fresh out of the oven, warm and buttery, with a hint of truffle oil. After my dad's first bite, he attempted to steal the rest of ours and pile them on his plate-- nice try.

Just try not eating the entire thing.

Two notes about service: 1) When we were first seated, our table had white linen napkins. After we were seated, the napkins were taken away, and replaced with dark ones. Still haven't figured out why. 2) Our initial "server" came to explain the menu, but he seemed a bit lost and stumbled frequently. He also spoke so quietly that none of us could really understand his explanations (even after asking him to speak up). A few minutes later, another server came to take care of us, and walked us through the menu again, and then stuck with us throughout the night. We're also still pondering this one.

We chose to do the smaller tasting menu, which gives you options at each point. We all tried to order something different, which wasn't as hard as I expected- sometimes, we all legitimately wanted different items. My choice for the first course was the eggplant terrine, beautifully constructed with layers of eggplant, roasted red peppers, and goat cheese. It was topped with a tiny spoonful of crushed black garlic, which was a foreign flavor to me- still not sure if I'm a fan, as it's rather bitter. This was a delicious and thankfully light start to my meal.

My dad chose to get the beet dish, which I didn't try but just have to comment on one of the menu-listed ingredients for this dish: soil. Soil? Somewhere I had read online (perhaps in one of the most recent reviews?) that this simple plate had pumpernickel crumbs, but I still found it odd that this isn't explained whatsoever on the menu. Quirky- and my dad said it was the best soil he'd ever had, but I can definitely see this creating confusion.

The other two chose the foie gras soup- which I can definitely see becoming a Sbraga staple (many of the menu items change seasonally). The thick, creamy soup is poured tableside (into an awesome bowl-- we all loved the variety of dishes our food came on) served over an onion and rose petal relish. For those of you (like us) that don't love the flavor of rosewater, don't be scared-- there isn't even a hint of it here. Just the rich flavor of pureed duck liver (which I swore I wouldn't eat again anytime soon..).

After licking our plates (and bowls) clean, we waited a reasonable amount of time for the second course. The pacing of the meal was spot on, which was actually one of my favorite parts of the experience, since it gave us time to rest and carry on conversation between courses. The second course is seafood based, and J immediately laid claim to the "Fish n' Chips" option, a beautiful plate of Indian-spiced cauliflower remoulade serving as a base for a small handful of crispy fries and lightly battered, fried fish (unfortunately, I don't know which species). I think J wanted to order this as her third course as well.

Bad picture, good food.

My dad chose the artic char, a fish similar in texture and flavor to the more common salmon. While he found the flavors a bit underwhelming, the beauty of this plate is too much not to share- the thick, sweet (pomegranate or beet?) syrup held firm to the plate while the thin celery root puree filled in the spaces.

The menu really spans a wide array of flavors from around the world, which is well represented by my fish choice, the black cod served with spiced lentils and a bok choy "chip", as well as a pile of spicy kim chee'd veggies. The flavors of each part were intense, but complimented each other without competing. The 2" cube of cod was coated in a tangy, barbecue-like sauce that I couldn't get enough of.

The third course is the meat-based dish (and while there is a vegetarian option, I just.. wouldn't) and my dad ordered the already infamous meatloaf. Both of the servers who explained the menu to us made a point to emphasize this dish, which was a superb recommendation. The meatloaf contains zero bread, which maximizes the meatiness. The tomato-bacon marmalade was like a thick, savory icing to the meat cake. We all laughed at the mini pile of potatoes (it was like a doll-sized serving), but by the end, I think we were happy not to have huge portions- the richness of the food combined with the multiple courses leaves you stuffed.

My mom ordered what I consider the most approachable dish on the menu- buffalo chicken. I had low expectations, but Sbraga delivered on this bar food favorite. Three pieces of bone-in chicken were fried in a slightly spicy batter- and I won't lie, this is some serious fried chicken. I'm not sure of Sbraga's background, but he could easily lead a Southern style restaurant, based on this dish alone. The other components of classic buffalo wings- the sauce, the blue cheese, and the celery and carrots- were all present as well, each in a unique form. Chunky blue cheese crumbles lay under the chicken- some of the best, smoothest blue cheese I've ever had. A shaved celery and carrot salad completes the plate, and a tiny bottle of a thin, vinegar-y riff on buffalo sauce accompanied the dish (I think my little trial taste was the only time the bottle was used-- it's unnecessary with the explosion of flavors already present here).

My plate consisted of a breakfast classic- sausage gravy, a soft, flour-y Southern style biscuit (like I was saying...), and a fried egg, all over a bit of potato-artichoke hash. This is really the breakfast (and lunch, and dinner) of my dreams- perfect for any meal, rich and decadent without being overwhelming.

J ordered the double lamb dish, which pairs a piece of fatty lamb belly and a perfectly cooked bone-in lamb chop with a sweet cinnamon spiked oatmeal. Both pieces of meat were fantastic- there were a few comments that the chop didn't even taste like lamb (only the slightest hint of that earthy, gamey flavor). The oatmeal base, however, was not the best accompaniment- sweet when we wanted salty. I'm a master of savory oatmeal breakfasts, so I was particularly turned off- but one wrong turn in a meal full of rights is more than acceptable.

The four course tasting comes with dessert, although we've heard rumor you can skip dessert and leave for just $35 a head. The desserts are the masterpieces of Sbraga's wife, and while they showcase creativity and use only the best ingredients, there was something missing that we couldn't quite put our finger on.

Caramel Apple Mille-Feuille

Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Cranberry Relish, Streusel and Salted Caramel Gelato

Dark Chocolate with Mascarpone and Coffee Granita (Shaved Ice)

The highlight for all of us (minus my mom who somehow lacks the coffee-loving gene) was the coffee granita, reminiscent of the refreshment of a deep, dark iced coffee in the dead of summer. The pairing with the creamy, slightly sweet mascarpone and the bitter dark chocolate was everything you'd want in a dessert. However, while it was a perfect combination, it comes down to three delicious ingredients- how challenging can that be?

We're glad Sbraga is thriving- for some reason, I'm scared that the Symphony House space might be eternally cursed after Craig LaBan's 0 bell rating of former occupant Chew Man Chu. Some have noted that the location is only convenient for the theater/Kimmel Center crowd, but it's just a measly three blocks off the central line of Walnut Street. As for us, we'd love to go back to Sbraga and sit at the counter right off the kitchen- the dining experience further expanded to include entertainment.

Sbraga
440 S. Broad Street

Foie Gras Tasting at Meritage

2011-12-22T19:13:00.002-05:00

We've just wrapped up a crazy month at work (although we do seem to say that a lot, don't we?), and as a little treat to ourselves, we decided to jump in on one of Meritage's weekly tasting menus. I often see these menus floating through the blogosphere, usually highlighting a seasonal or rare ingredient. Otherwise, this little neighborhood gem of a restaurant isn't on the forefront of our must-revisit list, though it really should be. It's good for just about any occasion- you can catch a game in the front room with a short list of delicious bar snacks, meet up with a group of friends for a fun and filling mix of small plates, or make it a romantic date spot. We've been ourselves a handful of times- usually for one of their specialty dishes, the Korean Fried Chicken.

Back to the important part-- the tasting menu. The reason it caught our eye? Foie gras. Four glorious courses of foie gras. Five, if you include the amuse bouche, which also incorporated the infamous ingredient. For a reasonable price of $39/person, no less!

While we love foie (sorry, PETA), we were also recently discussing an article we read in the Economist, highlighting a recent scientific (yay, science) look into what makes good foie gras. Apparently, some ducks just make bad fatty livers. Who knew? The tasting menu came at a good timing, since we were well-primed for some "meat-butter," as J calls it.

Note: the article also has a fascinating picture of how exactly a goose is force-fed. I'll refrain from showing it here, for those who find it cruel.

Meritage has consistently solid service, and our waitress was attentive without being needy. Even though we ordered the fixed price, fixed dish menu, it's still nice to have someone checking in on you. After placing our order (we didn't even need to open the menu), we received bread service, which seemed a little unnecessary, since our amuse arrived almost immediately after.

A little slice of soft toasted brioche was topped with a dollop of creamy foie gras mousse, as well as a couple pieces of spicy pickled apple to add a bit of crunch- it was a good combination of sweet and salty. While just a tiny bite, it set us up for a solid meal to come.

Our second dish arrived a bit too quickly- more than a minute to eat the amuse isn't necessary, but it's nice to take a breath before diving into the next dish. The first course consisted of two dumplings, stuffed with foie and shiitake mushrooms. Dumplings have always been a specialty of Chef Anne Coll, which might be explained by the fact that she trained under the dumpling master herself, Susanna Foo. This rendition was superb- very crispy on the outside, which might be a turn-off to some, but is how I happen to like them. The inside was rich and meaty, more solid than we expected (more like a meatball than typical foie texture), and dripping with the rich truffle-butter sauce. Completely over the top, it was definitely one of our favorite dishes of the night.

The second course was again extremely quick to come out, making me nervous that our meal would last half an hour, but I was quieted by the flavors- and foie- of the plate in front of me. While the initial menu called for duck confit, our waitress informed us ahead of time that we would be getting duck breast instead. Disappointed? Maybe for a minute. We did notice that a couple who was seated shortly after us did receive the confit, so maybe it was still in the preparation stage when we arrived.

This was actually my least favorite dish of the night, not because of poor preparation but because of a contrast in flavors I didn't love. The base of the dish consisted of curried lentils- amazing on their own- and was topped with thin slices of perfectly rare, buttery duck breast. The busy-ness started when the meat was topped with a sweet, tangy pomegranate reduction. There was also a small pile of a kumquat-pineapple chutney, as well as the obligatory foie, served torchon style. A torchon- meaning towel in French- is essentially a long roll stuffed full of foie (or other ingredient), which is then carefully sliced into tight discs. Overall, we liked each component of the dish, but it didn't come together. At all.

The fourth course redeemed anything we didn't like about the third, presenting us with one of the best dishes we've eaten this year. A fun little stack of ingredients, topped with the best part of all- a small filet of foie. Look at that. It's huge. The second layer was a monstrous roasted diver scallop, for size comparison- and this wasn't just any scallop. It was perfectly cooked, meaty yet soft, and surprisingly, a perfect partner to the foie. We both ate this in tiny slivers, scooping both layers on our forks before taking a bite. The bottom layer was a single braised shortrib "ravioli" (seemed a lot like a dumpling!) in a bordelaise sauce that complemented the rich meat well. A side of spinach was a bit of an afterthought, but we always appreciate a spike of greens. To us, it was almost like two dishes- the foie + scallop, and the ravioli + spinach.

While some savory tasting menus either skip dessert or forego the special ingredient, we were completely fine with a sweet take on the stuff. Foie mousse was mixed with peanut butter, which actually helped reduce the meaty flavor of the liver. It didn't hurt that it was encased in a solid coating of frozen dark chocolate and served over a smear of currant jam sauce (reminiscent of a seedless raspberry jam). The peanut butter and jam combination is timeless, and had us almost licking our plates.

Although foie is known to stir up some controversy, we try to focus on the final product- something absolutely delicious that should probably only be eaten on special occasions in small quantities. In this case, we felt that the tasting menu was a good way to get our fill, as well as to have a mini-celebration of our recent accomplishments. As much as we love it, it will probably be awhile until we order foie again (famous last words, probably). The foie-based tasting menu is no longer available, but we recommend you keep an eye on upcoming options- if they're anything like this, they're well worth it.

Meritage
500 S. 20th Street (at Lombard)

S'Mores Brownies

2011-12-20T20:48:00.001-05:00

The holiday season is in full swing, and it seems like we've been going to a million work/school related Christmas parties. Some of them are catered, and some are potluck- my favorite! My lab is quite multi-cultural, so our potluck was a fun opportunity to try some new and different dishes. Since I was in the middle of prepping for an important meeting, I needed to throw together something quick and easy that would also be a crowd-pleaser- and this recipe fulfilled both of these requirements quite well.

Similar to regular s'mores, you really only need three ingredients to make this seemingly fancy and elaborate three-layer treat: a box of graham crackers, a box of brownie mix, and a bag of mini marshmallows.

What you need.

Layer 1: The graham cracker. To fill an 8"x8" pan, crush enough crackers to make a cup and a half of crumbs. For me, this was a little less than one package (1/3 box) of grahams- though I went the lazy way and crushed them up in a bowl with a meat pounder (not the best idea)- and then fished out the larger pieces toward the end. Next time, I'll get out my food processor.

Melt 6 tablespoons of butter and use a dollop to grease a foil-lined pan. Mix the rest into the crumbs and press the whole lot into the bottom of the greased pan. Bake for 20 minutes at 350F.

Pre-bake.

Layer 2: The chocolate. While the first layer is setting up in the oven, mix up the second layer- again I took the path of least resistance and used a mix- a fudgy, dark chocolate Duncan Hines version. Of course, you could always use your favorite recipe for homemade brownies! The mix had options for making denser brownies versus cake-y brownies- and because I wanted this to emulate a real s'more- melty and gooey- I went with the dense option, which required one egg, a bit of canola oil and some water- ingredients I always have on hand.

Baking the graham and butter mixture allows it to really compact and form a crispy and sturdy crust. As soon as the pan came out of the oven, I smoothed the brownie mixture across the top and popped it back into the oven, following the directions on the box for baking time.

Twenty minutes later...

Layer 3: The marshmallow. When my toothpick came out relatively clean (again, going for the gooey factor), I spread a layer of mini marshmallows across the top, fired up my broiler, and positioned the pan under the center of the flames. You want the marshmallows to puff up and brown a little bit, but if you've ever roasted a marshmallow, you know the process needs to be closely monitored. I watched the entire time- it took about four minutes to reach my desired marshmallow puff level, but of course this is dependent on how far your pan is from the flame and how powerful your broiler is.

I let the brownies cool completely before I cut them into individual pieces. I used the edges of the foil to pull the whole square out of the pan and place it on a cutting board. As I cut, the marshmallows seemed to fuse onto my knife- I recommend wetting or greasing the blade to prevent these sticky guys from latching on.

I'm never one to claim something is "too rich" to eat- but for these, you want to keep the size moderate to small. The buttery crust crunches and gives way to the rich, chocolately brownies and the fluffy toasted 'mallows. They're not nearly as messy as the real thing and have an extra indulgent density- so satisfying to bite into. Not quite as fun to make as the fire-roasted version, but a unique and easy treat- perfect for feeding a crowd over the holidays!

American Sardine Bar

2011-12-18T16:00:00.003-05:00

While we've recently been professing our love to the gastro side of the gastropub, most of our favorites are a bit of a hike away. And although we're fine with walking down to Passyunk on a warm day, our Floridian roots keep us indoors more during the winter. Thus, we were pretty excited to see that American Sardine Bar- cheffed by SPTR's Scott Schroeder- was slated to open a little closer to our neighborhood. It's still technically in South Philly (since when is "Point Breeze" a common name for the area?), but just a couple blocks past Washington.

The corner spot has the best marker- a giant hanging sardine can, rolled open-- you can't miss it. While the downstairs has a long bar that takes up the majority of the narrow room, the upstairs offers a quieter, more open space. We sat ourselves at a communal table and admired the eclectic art while deciding on some eats. The menu isn't provided to each individual diner, but is posted on a chalkboard located in the corner of the room. Apparently it's common for groups to snap a picture on an iPhone and pass it around the table. Thankfully, it's pretty simple, consisting mostly of sandwiches (notably, no burger, which didn't break my heart but might be disappointing to others).

We ordered a mix of items in an attempt to eat as much of the menu as possible. J started with the Jewish Chicken Noodle Soup ($6, if you didn't notice on the above menu), which epitomizes the Schroeder specialty- comforting and familar, but with a bit of a spin. The soup was steaming hot, with loads of egg noodles, soft carrots, shredded chicken and a touch of dill for extra flavor.

We put my fiance in charge of eating one of his favorite sandwiches (I've decided he literally lives on pulled pork sometimes), the Walt Wit Braised Pork sandwich ($8). He was slightly skeptical, since he wasn't sure he'd like the flavor the Philly-area beer lent to the meat. Thankfully, the flavor was subtle, letting the pork take center stage on a perfectly toasted, odd shaped ciabatta roll spread with a creamy goat cheese sauce. I would never think to put pulled pork and goat cheese together, but the combination was delicious.

Although ASB is sandwich-centric, the sandwiches stand alone-- if you want a side, you'll have to fork over another $5-6. Although this pushes your total sandwich+side price to the $15 range, it's worth it- the sides are (mostly) large portions and not just afterthoughts to your main dish- you could easily make a meal out of a couple of these. The three of us split a bowl of mac n' cheese with tomato and bacon ($6). Familiar elbow macaroni in a simple cheese sauce is updated with a touch of tomato sauce mixed in (no tomato chunks!) and a hint of bacon.

My addition to the table was the Falafel Sandwich ($7), served on a massive piece of fluffy naan (which the waitress wasn't certain was housemade), three massive fried falafel balls, and a pile of veggies. A tzatziki-like sauce provided a coolness to offset the slightly spicy pickles- my favorite part. It was almost impossible to eat- way too big to pick up- but I made it work by tearing off pieces of naan and filling it with chunks of falafel and a little pile of veggies, making many mini sandwiches out of the single large one.

On the side, I ordered an absolute auto-order- roasted Brussels sprouts ($6). While the portion was a bit measly (I expected maybe twice this amount), the flavor was over-the-top good. Sliced in half, the mini cabbages were toasted until crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, with a solid amount of oily richness in each bite. The veggies themselves didn't have a lot of heat, but end up with a tiny piece of chili pepper on your fork and BAM, you're reaching for your water. In a good way. While the Brussels don't top those at Varga, they definitely come pretty darn close.

Our final bite of the evening was in reverence to the name of this new spot, the Sardine Sandwich ($2). I was laughing at the tiny price of this dish, but quit laughing when it arrived at the table- it really is small. The bread is thinly sliced from a narrow baguette, and topped with a pile of shredded lettuce and red onion and a scoop of sardine salad. If you're wary of sardines, you shouldn't be. Especially in this rendition, it's particularly reminiscent of canned tuna. The sandwich is finished with a slice of hard boiled egg (in the back of the picture, and can be used for a size reference!). Tasty, but tiny. If you're set on the sardines, order three of 'em.

Overall, it was a solid showing of Schroeder's talent in the kitchen. While the menu is significantly abbreviated compared to SPTR, it's kind of like a fun little brother to the original. With its more convenient location, we think we'll add this to our go-to list for an inexpensive, quick dinner with friends. We'd love to see it bring in additional quality restaurants to the area, as it could certainly use a few upgrades.

American Sardine Bar
1801 Federal Street

Vic Sushi

2011-12-14T19:56:00.002-05:00

During my recent trip home to Florida, I met up with some friends at one of our favorite sushi spots- a trendy restaurant in "downtown" Gainesville. We got to talking about the lack of good sushi in our respective current cities- last time A & I had good Japanese food we went to New Jersey for it... Our conversation reignited my need to find good sushi in our area, and I decided to finally check out a little take-out spot that a few friends had recommended.

Source

I called in our order after work on a Friday, specifying when I would be able to pick it up. It was dark out and the only part of the awning I could see said "sushi bar" so I had to cross my fingers and hope I was arriving at the right place. They hadn't taken my name over the phone, which I thought was a little strange- the woman working the counter had to rifle through a few bags of food before determining which one was mine. Can you tell picking-up food to-go is a novelty to me? The inside of the store was bright and pleasant, but only a few seats at the counter means most people go the take-out/delivery route.

A & I both started out with a seaweed salad ($3), a generous pile of algae in varying shapes and shades of green and yellow. Tossed with a sweet rice vinegar-based dressing, the seaweed acted like a little salad- something I ate in between pieces of sushi in lieu of pickled ginger. I do prefer my seaweed salads to be more on the salty/spicy side of the spectrum- a bit too sugary for me. A solid (and inexpensive) appetizer nonetheless.

Vic's is pretty well-known by the Yelp-er's for their three-roll special- your choice of three "regular" rolls for just $10.95. Definitely a good way to go if you're sticking to simpler maki preparations. We agreed on a few of our favorites- a Philly roll, an Alaska, and a spicy tuna. Good-sized hunks of creamy fat-streaked salmon and an equally good-sized cube of cool, firm cream cheese- the Philly roll is superb. Sub the cream cheese for avocado and you're in Alaska- either way, the fat content of both guarantee a great mouthful of sushi.

The spicy tuna roll was a pretty major disappointment- I know this roll typically uses leftover tuna "scraps" but the filling in this was more of a mushy pureed tuna mixed with a not-spicy-at-all "spicy" sauce. It had the essence of a spicy sauce- the creaminess from the mayo and a hint of balancing sweetness- but just the barest hint of sriracha had us wanting far more of the burn. But two out of three ain't bad- I told A that next time we should just get three Philly rolls.

We also chose a couple of special rolls from their extensive list. Ingredient quality is certainly a large aspect of how enjoyable a sushi experience is, but we also like to see what kind of creative ways a sushi chef can combine different flavors and textures in a single bite. And yes, these should be able to be eaten in a single bite. First up was a Red Dragon ($10.95)- eel, avocado, and cucumber topped with tuna. We ate a few pieces of the fish off of the top- this was definitely no high-quality toro (fatty tuna belly)- very lean and topped with a little sprinkle of ginger dust. Overall the roll just didn't have a whole lot of flavor- it certainly wasn't bad, but it wasn't exciting.

Fortunately, the Lucky Roll ($10.95) was explosively flavorful- not surprising considering it's contents. Puffy chunks of lightly fried tempura shrimp, avocado, and cucumber are wrapped up and drizzled with a sweet and salty eel sauce, layered with thickly sliced salmon, more avocado, and topped by a sriracha-heavy spicy sauce. Hello, everything I love in one bite. We're not typically fans of non-raw components in our rolls, but the combination of velvet-y salmon and chewier shrimp was a winner. Definitely our favorite roll of the night.

After stuffing ourselves to the brim with seaweed, rice, and raw fish, we knew we'd found our new go-to sushi bar. Just a short walk away, affordable prices, great quality fish (minus the spicy tuna..), and a solid list of specialty rolls that we'll have to work our way through- so glad we finally "discovered" this little place.

Vic Sushi
2035 Sansom Street

Fresh Fruit Pie

2011-12-10T15:43:00.001-05:00

Even though we attempt a new baking project now and again, sometimes it's easier to fall back on making something foolproof. Invited to a recent potluck-style brunch, I was looking for something sweet that wasn't your typical breakfast baked good. J reminded me of a quick and easy pie she has made several times in the past- and while she usually intends it as a dessert, it can easily function as a part of breakfast or brunch.

The "pie" consists of fruit and nuts- nothing else! This makes it 1) easy, 2) vegan, and 3) raw (no baking involved). While you can use a variety of different combinations of ingredients depending on what you have on hand, there are a few basic rules to follow.

The pie consists of a crust, sliced fruit, and a smoothie-esque topping to bind everything together. For all three parts, you'll need:

1.5 cups of nuts, preferably raw, no salt added (more than one nut variety recommended)
1 cup + 1/2 cup dried dates, preferably of the large, soft, and moist variety
2 cups of chopped fresh fruit
1 1/2 cups fresh or frozen fruit

Raw cashews, walnuts, kiwi, banana, strawberries, and dates.

Pretty vague ingredients list, I know, but you'll understand soon! The first layer of the pie is the crust, which is so much easier than a butter based crust. I soaked 1 cup of raw cashews in water for about an hour, then drained them and combined them with 1/2 cup of raw walnuts and 1 cup of dates (pits removed, roughly chopped). I also added a pinch of salt and 1/2 teaspoon of vanilla extract, but these additions are optional. Throw everything into a blender or food processor and pulse/blend until combined.

Eventually, a ball should form, letting you know the mixing is complete. If it's taking awhile, or seems dry, you can add small pieces of date to up the sticky factor. The final mix should NOT be crumbly or dry, but easily moldable.

Add the entire mix to a shallow pie dish (you could also make it in a tart pan) and work the dough with your hands until you've covered the entire dish (including the sides) with a uniform layer. No greasing of the pan is necessary- the fat from the nuts does the job itself.

Slice fresh fruit (about two cups, depending on the size of your dish) and arrange over the crust. I chose strawberries (although horribly out of season), quartering them and placing them in concentric circles. Over these, I arranged peeled, sliced kiwi. While you could use a number of different fruits, I'd recommend staying away from any that are extremely watery (melons, citrus fruit, etc) or those that brown easily (bananas, apples).

This fruit forms the base of the pie, so the next step is to form the top layer, which serves to bind everything together. The final product should be a thick blended mix, including mostly fresh fruit with a few dates thrown in for increased sweet-and-stickiness. I used one banana, 1/2 of a ripe mango and about five dates, and blended them in the food processor until well combined. Frozen fruit would also work just fine, and might be easier during the off season.

Once blended, carefully pour and smooth the binder over the pie, making sure that everything is evenly coated.

The pie could be consumed immediately, but is best after an overnight refrigeration. You can also freeze it, which helps keep everything together once it's time to cut. I refrigerated mine overnight, and then froze it for 2 hours before serving. This helped solidify everything without freezing it completely, and while it still was quite a mess to serve, allowed me to make definable slices.

While the coolness factor (and the need for fresh fruit) makes this more of a warm weather treat, it was nice to have a little piece of summer as the days get colder. The pie is super easy and packs a nutritional punch (although fairly high in natural sugars), and its vegan and gluten-free status makes it friendly for any audience while remaining easily approachable.

The Bar-B-Que Shop

2011-12-06T18:46:00.001-05:00

Back entrance from the parking lot.

You've heard it here before- we love barbecue. After many months of planning, A & I finally traveled to one of the BBQ capitals of the world- Memphis, Tennessee. Though our real reasons for visiting were to see good friends and to run the St. Jude Half Marathon (A's first!), we were also able to experience the highlight of Memphis cuisine. Everyone has their own opinion about what the true "best" place in Memphis is, but our friends have established a list of their personal favorites. BBQ is always best eaten with a very empty stomach, so we planned our meal to fall after we were finished running. Unfortunately, this meant skipping out on their favorite- Central BBQ- because of long lines (too hungry to wait!).

Dancing pigs?

The Bar-B-Que Shop was a close second on the list, and with empty tables, a great bet. We immediately put in an order for a Combo Cheese Plate ($11.95)- not something I would typically order, but I trusted our friends' experienced judgement. This basket of delight was great for nibbling on while we waited for the main event. Blocks of creamy cheddar cheese, saltine crackers, and explosively juicy pepperoncini peppers played supporting roles to the meaty stars- barbecued bologna and Polish sausage drenched in sauce. Barbecued bologna was definitely new to me- thick strips of soft, slightly chewy meat (sort of like a good pork loin) exuded a smoky, slightly sweet-and-salty flavor, with the sauce adding a vinegar-based acidic element. Well-balanced flavors and with a great texture- impossible not to like. The sausage had a similar flavor profile, but with a touch of spice, a hint of garlic, and the best part- the addition of a snappy ring of casing wrapped around each fat, dollar-coin-sized slice.

Memphis BBQ is most reknowned for two things: pulled pork and dry-rub ribs. We got neither. Oops! Instead, A ordered the pulled beef sandwich plate, served on Texas toast ($7.50). Large hunks of slow-cooked brisket smothered in a sweet tomato and vinegar sauce and creamy coleslaw on fluffy thick-cut white bread- how can you go wrong? Extra sauce from a squeeze bottle is available at every table, but A decided to spice it up a bit with their "hot" sauce which was more vinegar and less sweet than the regular, with a great low-burning heat. Coleslaw is served on the side as well, which helps you appreciate its flavor- minimal mayo with the unexpected addition of bits of salty pickle. The only side that gave this a run for its money were the fries- super crispy with a thin coating of seasoned batter, similar to a Checker's style fry (my closet favorite).

Since everyone else at the table got pulled pork sandwiches, I knew I needed to try something a little different- the BBQ spaghetti was a little TOO different, so I opted for a "Regular Rib Order" ($15.95). These are served dry or wet, and I like me some sauce, so.. dry it wasn't. Eight meaty pork ribs came alongside baked beans, slaw, and Texas toast (we've now covered the entire list of available sides). The ribs still had the coarse pepper-y rub coating their surfaces, which was complimented by a good slather of tangy sauce. Falling off the bone, the smoky pork meat was dark in color, juicy and rich. While I've already sung my praises to the coleslaw, the baked beans and toast were nothing special.

I also tasted a bite of the pulled pork sandwich, but with all the fixin's it was hard to say what made it better than others I've tried. Surprisingly, considering how hungry we were post-race, this was enough food for us to bring home half the meal to eat the next day. The ribs weren't all that great as leftovers, but I think that is to be expected. Overall, the down-homey, quiet Bar-B-Que Shop was a great place for us to fill up on great Memphis BBQ. Of note, our waiter was ah-may-zing... possibly the nicest waiter I've ever had. He was just so cheerful- and with a heavy dose of Southern hospitality, he had us feeling like royalty.

Next time we'll have to make it to Central BBQ- I hear the BBQ nachos are something special!

The Bar-B-Que Shop
Memphis, TN

Khyber Pass Pub

2011-12-01T10:00:00.000-05:00

After our trip to Royal Tavern a few weeks back, I was positive the next place to cross off my list was its sister restaurant, Khyber Pass Pub. Well, to be honest I had made the decision about the time I saw the menu at Khyber- full of Southern delicacies like fried okra and fried green tomatoes (yes, there is lots of frying down South). Khyber just celebrated their one year anniversary as a restaurant in its new rendition- previously, it had been primarily a small live music venue. Its location in the midst of Old City probably suited it well for more of a nightlife spot, but I'm happier with another great restaurant.

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While the bar scene is alive and well, there is a separate (slightly) quieter dining room for focusing on the food. While a friend and I caught up, I placed an order for two of my most favorite Southern foods that I never see in the Philly area: boiled peanuts and fried okra, both of which are actually part of the Daily Specials chalkboard menu (they've been specials for at least a little while, but I'd still hurry to get them while you can!). The boiled (correctly pronounced more like "balled" if you're Southern) peanuts were just like the roadstand variety you can get anywhere in the rural South- boiled for hours in their shells until the entire thing is soft, easy to pull open with your fingers, and holding salty, brined soft peanuts within ($3). If you've never had boiled peanuts, I suggest you change that immediately (recipe found here). And when you do try them, don't expect them to be at all like the roasted peanut you may be accustomed to!

Peanuts in the spotlight

The second app was actually ordered off the side item menu- a small crock full of fried okra ($5). Okra is diced into bite size pieces, battered in a cornmeal based crust, and then fried until the vegetable is softened and the outer coating is nice and crispy. They were served with an "Alabama white BBQ sauce," which I must confess I know nothing about. It tasted a bit like a thinned out mayonnaise mixed with just a hint of spice. My only complaint was that the tiny pieces were sort of difficult to eat- it's not something I really want to use a fork for, but dipping made it impossible not to get your fingers in everything. Together, though, these two starters made for a great start to the meal, giving us plenty of time to peruse the menu and decide on our main courses.

There were so many fun options (the Smoked Duck, Cashew Peanut Butter and Pepper Jelly Sandwich might bring me back all on it's own), but I went with a classic Southern staple- the Memphis-Style Fried Chicken plate ($15). In order to investigate the authenticity of this dish, we've planned a trip to Memphis for this weekend. Well, that might be a stretch, but we actually ARE going, and now I'm super pumped to eat the fried chicken. And to continue my streak of honesty, I'm really not sure what makes this chicken Memphis style. But I can tell you one thing- it is delicious. The plate came with a generous three pieces- a wing, a thigh, and a leg. The crispy, salty coating had a bit of cornmeal in it (similar to the fried okra), and was not too thin nor too thick. Steaming hot even fifteen minutes after its arrival, the inner meat was juicy and maintained great flavor-- too often, fried chicken is very boring under that thick outer skin.

The plate came with two sides, of which I chose a forever favorite, collard greens, as well as another special side item, the hush puppies. The collard greens are actually vegan, one of a number of dishes offered to our ~~crazy~~ non-animal-eating-friends. I was actually a little wary, since one of the best ways to make collards shine is to add a good amount of smoked meat. However, these greens were spicy and rich, while still maintaining their deep earthy flavor.

The hush puppies were extremely strange- if anyone is used to this type of hush puppy, please comment and provide me with the origin! We're used to hush puppies being fried balls of dense cornbread, but instead, these were long pieces of dough that seemed flash fried like a doughnut.

What I was expecting (Source)

I wasn't a huge fan (probably because I'm going to be loyal to the type of puppy I know and love), but the two side sauces were particularly noteworthy. First, the molasses butter combined the dark sweetness of brown sugar and the smooth coolness of butter into something I'd like to drown in- it was basically caramel, before the cooking process. The other sauce was a pepper jelly, which I have little experience with, but I'm definitely a big fan- sweet yet spicy, it's the best of both hot sauce and sweet jam.

My friend really wanted to try the Khyber Gumbo, a notoriously rich mixture of slow cooked chicken, andouille sausage, and veggies cooked in a Cajun-style deep, dark roux ($8/bowl). Served over a pile of white rice, this would make a perfect quick, inexpensive dinner on a cold night. The bite I had was just as I thought it would be upon first sight- rich with the flavors of multiple kinds of meat, with lots of cayenne pepper for a slow burn.

I also got a chance to try a bite from Khyber's extensive barbecue menu, as my friend also ordered the brisket sandwich. While it wasn't the best barbecue I've had around town, it would definitely hit the spot if a craving arose.

While the scene and food at Khyber are quite different from what you'd find at Royal Tavern, it was somehow exactly as I imagined it might be- a good crowd, but still easy to have an audible conversation, dark, but not in a creepy or romantic way, and great eats, certainly not in a health-conscious manner, but soulful and rich, just like the South.

Khyber Pass Pub
56 S. Second Street

Cooperage

2011-11-28T09:21:00.001-05:00

Hopefully everyone had a terrific Thanksgiving holidayweekend- A & I were split up as I traveled home to Florida and she stayedin the Philly area. Before I leftfor home, I met up with a friend who was in town for dinner at Cooperage- asmall, casual spot located in the Curtis Center on Walnut Street. When Cooperage originally opened, thefood was heavily influenced by the South, with menu items like fried greentomatoes and mac n’ cheese. As ithas evolved, the menu has become a little more generic with just a subtleSouthern accent.

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The space is broken into two distinct areas- a U-shaped barwith a TV broadcasting the current game and a quieter section with booths fordiners. The décor seems MiddleEastern, with ornately patterned curtains, lots of throw pillows, and sequinembellishments- certainly beautiful but gives the restaurant a bit of anidentity crisis. We were thankfulfor the quiet booth- the host made sure to let us know that our table would bean “intimate” setting. The limitednumber of patrons meant we got perfect service from our friendly waitress.

We split a couple of appetizers- starting with one of theremnants from the original menu- the pulled pork nachos ($8). Served on a wooden board, four thin andcrispy tortilla chips acted as the base of little pulled pork mountains. Minimal sauce coated the finelyshredded meat, allowing the slow-cooked smoky flavor to shine through. A slightly sweet pineapple and purpleonion salsa and a bit of lime crema added upscale nacho accoutrements,while a drizzle of sriracha sauce made for customizable spice levels. While this was no pile of gooey, meatynachos, we both really enjoyed the more “grown up” version of the dish.

We also ordered traditional buffalo wings ($8)- 10 pieces of friedchicken tossed in a not-spicy-at-all sauce that could have used a good kick ofheat. We both felt that the wingscould have used more sauce, but the creamy bleu cheese dressing made up forthis deficiency. The meat itselfhad a great texture and flavor, as if it’d been marinated in some kind of atenderizer. Crunchy carrots andcelery sticks rounded out this very conventional appetizer- a good rendition,but certainly not the best.

I tried to pick out the most “Southern” entrees but ended upordering the crab cake sandwich ($11)- a well-formed hockey puck patty of finelyshredded crab meat served atop a pillow-y brioche roll. Simply adorned with a fresh leaf ofbutter lettuce and a drizzle of aioli, the lightly fried crabcake played thestarring role. The texture of theegg-washed brioche highlighted the softness of the crab and made each bite verygratifying. All sandwiches areserved with potato chips, which can be substituted with fries (sweet potato orregular) or a salad for an extra charge. The $3 side salad was completely worth it- a generous pile of cucumber,peppers, tomatoes, carrots, purple onions, and mixed greens tossed with a lighthouse vinaigrette. Perfect forsatisfying the constant vegetable consumption requirement.

My friend ordered the BBQ chicken ($14), a quarter bird withcrispy darkened skin slathered with sauce. He chose sweet potato fries and spinach as his two sides,but the kitchen sent out sautéed zuchhini instead of fries. Fine by us- we got a large basket toshare as an apology. I didn’tthink the fries were particularly sweet potato-y (quite light on the inside)but they were super crispy, salty, and addicting.

I’m a little disappointed that we didn’t get to experiencethe more original initial menu offerings, but Cooperage provided us with agreat place to catch up and eat an inexpensive, tasty dinner. The multiple personality aspectactually benefits the restaurant by providing a little something for everyone.

Cooperage
123 S 7th Street

Bulgar Wheat Risotto

2011-11-21T17:57:00.001-05:00

There are a lot of culinary adventures I have yet to take- both at restaurants and at home in my own kitchen. Some just seem scary to me, which is why I hesitate to move outside my cooking comfort zone. One of these is risotto. Perhaps I've watched too many episodes of Top Chef, with contestants warning other contestants to stay away from risotto, since it's apparently quite easy to mess up. I don't even order it at restaurants, since I just assume it won't be good. Plus, there's that whole stirring-your-arm-off-for-an-hour thing. Recently, I decided to face my fears and make a simple risotto. Of course, I had to make it ~~cheaper~~ more challenging by using a grain I had in my pantry- bulgar wheat.

If you've never tried bulgar, it's a crushed wheat grain that has been parboiled and then dried. It has a very nutty flavor, and cooks up with a texture similar to couscous- it's the grain most commonly used in tabbouleh salad. In order to make a complete dish, we hit Whole Foods for a few extra ingredients. A very rare occurrence for us, but we'd been holding on to our Living Social deal for a special treat.

What you'll need if you'd like to follow along!

The shopping list included:

bulk baby portobellas
two large shallots
fresh thyme
low-sodium chicken broth
and some local smoked Gouda.

I started the risotto by heating 3 cups of the chicken broth (you can use vegetable or mushroom broth to keep this dish veg friendly) with 3 cups of water, keeping it covered at a simmer. One of the shallots was then finely diced and sauteed in a tablespoon of olive oil, until softened. I then added a cup of bulgar wheat, and allowed it to toast in the pan for a few minutes before adding 1/2 cup red cooking wine- but white will also do fine. Allow the liquid to absorb/steam off before moving on to the next step.

In the meantime, I prepared my mise en place by slicing the portobellas, chopping the second shallot, finely grating the gouda, and plucking leaves/finely chopping the thyme. This prep work helps make a hands-on dish a lot easier once everything gets going!

The next 45 minutes were spent in similar fashion: add the warm water/broth mixture to the pan, stir it into the bulgar mix and allow it to absorb. The first two broth additions should be voluminous- about two cups. After those are absorbed, add an additional cup, and then begin adding in 1/4-1/2 cup increments towards the end. Risotto- at least of the bulgar form- really isn't as difficult as it seems, however. Once each new addition was stirred in, I would allow it to simmer on it's own for the most part, just giving an extra stir here and there maybe every minute or so.

Steamy risotto.

After the first liquid addition, wait until the bottom of the pan is dry before you add the next. The risotto should be able to be pulled away from the bottom of the pan and remain solid. I'm at a loss for WHY this must occur, but I just follow instructions. I do know that the use of a large, flat, open pan allows for evaporation of a good amount of the liquid you add, which intensifies the flavor of the broth in the final dish.

Once I felt comfortable letting the risotto do it's thing, I started on the sauce. Since we were making a separate protein component, I kept it simple with a mushroom focus. The baby portobellas and the second shallot, along with a chopped clove of garlic, were sauteed in butter until softened. An additional 1/2 cup of red wine was added to this mix as well. Immediately prior to serving, a sprinkle of dried rosemary and the chopped fresh thyme were stirred in, adding a rustic, woodsy flavor.

After all of the liquid had been absorbed into the bulgar, I was left with a porridge-like pan of cooked grains. While typical risotto using Arborio rice should maintain a texture of individual grains, the smaller size and shape of the bulgar made a significantly creamier final substance- a bit like slow-cooked steel cut oatmeal.

In order to bring the final dish to the next level, we stirred in a couple large handfuls of the grated cheese, and then served it with the mushroom suace.

The creamy wheat and melted cheese were just right for each other- the nutty flavor of the bulgar and the smokiness from the cheese made this a bowl of delicious comfort. While we could have used a braised meat or eggs as a topping, the mushrooms seemed the best choice, providing an earthiness that was a good match for the rustic risotto.

With the colder months moving in, I have a feeling we'll be spending more time in our warm kitchen- and dishes like this, while more time consuming than I'd like for a weekday, make a special winter weekend treat!

Brunch at FARMiCiA

2011-11-20T15:45:00.001-05:00

To celebrate a friend's recent engagement (congrats J & M!), we made plans to meet up downtown for brunch. Looking for a casual, not-too-busy spot with convenient parking options, A decided on FARMiCiA. I've eaten there for dinner and loved the atmosphere and healthy, delicious fare.

On weekends, FARMiCiA serves breakfast for the early birds starting at 8:30 AM, but switches to a lengthy brunch menu at 10. There were several open tables when we arrived a few minutes before noon and we quickly settled into the bright and open industrial-space-turned-country-farmhouse.

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With so many great sounding options, we all struggled quite a bit to choose our entrees. However, we quickly came to the agreement to split a starter- the trio of cheeses ($12.90). Three types of cheese- one cow, one sheep, and one goat- are served with a pile of crispy baguette slices and a heap of fruit chutney. The firm crumbles of salty sheep feta and the bacon-y smoked goat gouda were my favorites- perfect to eat in little bits by themselves, or smushed onto a piece of bread (anyone else terrible at actually spreading cheese?) with a dollop of the chutney. The spicy and only slightly sweet chunks of dried apricots, apples, cherries, and raisins were balanced by a tart vinegar note- I couldn't ask for a more perfect complement to creamy cheese.

Goat, cow, sheep.

Overwhelmed by the rest of the menu, I kept it simple with lox and eggs ($12.50)- a vibrant yellow pile of buttery soft scrambled eggs under a blanket of smooth, smoky salmon. Fresh slices of juicy tomato and two pieces of a seed-y wheat bread made for a "complete" meal. Our entrees were served with a cute basket of ketchup and a super chunky strawberry jam (house-made?), the latter of which made for a great toast topper. Though I typically choose more elaborate dishes when I dine out, this time keepin' it simple ended up being a great decision.

A ordered a sandwich- the hummus and avocado ($9)- served with a chopped veggie salad. The sandwich was served on wedges of pita and included thickly sliced avocado, crisp tomato, and generous spreads of creamy hummus and artichoke tapenade. Mixed greens topped with crunchy peppers, carrots, tomatoes, and a fresh herb vinaigrette made for a colorful and tasty centerpiece on the plate. Unfortunately the dressing made one half of the sandwich a bit soggy- a light toast of the pita might have helped prevent this, as well as given some structure for ease of eating- it was slightly awkward to pick up.

The newly-engaged enjoyed equally tasty looking dishes- steak fajitas and a nova and cream cheese bagel sandwich served with a fresh fruit salad.

FARMiCiA was the perfect environment for catching up on proposal stories and wedding plans- the farm-fresh menu full of good eats only sweetened the deal. Our sour-faced waitress was the only downside to the experience- although the food came out quickly and we were well-taken care of, a smile or two wouldn't hurt. If you're looking for a hassle-free and relaxed (and affordable!) brunch with a dish or three that would satisfy any palate, keep FARMiCiA in mind!

FARMiCiA
15 S. 3rd Street

Royal Tavern

2011-11-16T19:31:00.001-05:00

If I had to list some of my favorite restaurants in the city, I tend not to put the fancy-schmancy spots on the top of my list. Maybe because we're just poor twenty-somethings and tend to eat at those places less frequently, but I also think it's due to the great number of affordable, fun eats. Many of the cheaper spots happen to be bars, or "gastropubs" if you will. You don't have to make a reservation, you don't have to dress up, you have ample people watching opportunities, you won't break the bank, and best of all, the food is both creative and high-quality.

South Philly tends to have more of these spots than anywhere else (perhaps to appease the large number of hipsters?), including Royal Tavern, a bar I've heard serves delicious eats for quite some time. Run by the same group that owns Cantina Los Caballitos, my tipping point came when I heard their burger was the best in Philly- an opinion which also reverberates across Yelp.

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The space, in one of my favorite areas of the city, is long and narrow, with a good number of tables, indicative of their emphasis on eating here. A half hour wait was almost expected on a Friday evening, but the waitstaff was great at getting people in and out. The menu isn't too extensive, and includes a lot of bar food staples- still, we had a hard time making decisions since everything sounded so delicious. I had "heard" via Twitter about a new menu item, Duck Confit Potato Skins ($??- somewhere around $10), and I knew I needed to try them.

One thing bars are horrible at: good lighting. Apologies.

Four small half potatoes are baked, then their innards are scooped out and replaced with shredded duck confit, bacon and truffle butter, then topped with thin slices of Gruyere and chopped scallions before going in for their re-baking, with a final dollop of cool sour cream added at the end. These are in no way healthy, but when you combine every rich savory ingredient, the delicious result is absolutely worth it. Shared among four of us, the few bites of moist duck (which tasted a lot like Thanksgiving turkey to me) and the melted cheese were a good start to our first meal here.

We also had no problem choosing the Fresh Popped Popcorn as a second snack to start ($3). A big paper bag is filled to the brim with steaming hot popcorn, coated in truffle butter and parmesan cheese. The truffle flavor was very subtle, but just enough to make this popcorn highly addicting.

While several seasonal dinner specials are available, we all chose to try a sandwich selection. J decided on the Chicken Frankie ($9), a unique name for an interesting wrap of shredded chicken slow-cooked with peppers and onions in an Indian-spiced sauce, along with a bit of coleslaw all stuffed into a thick, chewy lovash. The Indian-inspired flavors are a bit unexpected in an all-American place such as this, but they did it right- just a bit of curry and spice without being unapproachable by your average palate. The lovash also held up well to the mix of wet ingredients. Another fun thing about Royal Tavern is that they allow you to substitute any of their side options for the typical fries, allowing you a chance to sample anything from Refried Beans to Spicy Greens or Grilled Asparagus for no extra charge. J went with a side salad, which was a regrettable decision after being served a very simple soggy romaine and parsley mix.

The burger, of course, was a must order by at least one member of our group ($10). There are many contributing factors to the making of one of best burgers around, that I can't quite put my finger on what makes it so good. The brioche bun is large and fluffy, providing enough substance to prevent sogginess or tearing, but being light enough to not detract from the main event. The meat itself is pretty substantial, and cooked perfectly to order. It's topped with bacon, caramelized onions, smoked gouda, pickled longhots, and chile mayonnaise- a combination that seems somewhat overwhelming, but is actually a brilliant concoction. The side of fries is served with a malt vinegar mayonnaise- a combination that almost reaches "pure food genius" status.

Another menu item that seemingly everyone raves about is the Tempeh Club, one of many vegetarian and vegan friendly items available (hipsters, right?). I knew before arriving it was my top choice of eats, so I had no problem adding it to our order. This sandwich is pretty epic- and I'm pretty sure would be loved by even the most meat-centric eater. This picture does it no justice, as this sandwich is massive, a triple stack of grilled multi-grain bread, slices of vegan bacon (which my bacon-fanatic-fiance agreed tastes remarkably like the real thing), grilled tempeh, romaine, tomato, and a basil aioli ($8). Some people have issues with the texture of tempeh, but here it blends well with the toasted bread, the soft tomato, and the crunchy lettuce, just providing a great nutty, smoky flavor. The half I saved for the next day's lunch was just as good- almost like a good soup, the flavors amplified as they sat overnight.

I couldn't pass up fries, but opted for the Old Bay spiced fries instead of the regular. The same hand cut fries (with skin-- my favorite) were potato perfection- thick, but still crispy, with the spicy seasoning giving it an extra pop of flavor. Kind of weird with the malt vinegar mayo- or ketchup for that matter- but delicious all on their own.

The last sandwich choice of our group was the Grilled Chicken Sandwich ($9), which to me sounds like an absolute yawnfest. BUT. This is Royal Tavern-- this is no ordinary chicken sandwich. Toasted sourdough encases a pile of delicious ingredients, including chicken, of course, as well as prosciutto, blue cheese, thinly sliced pear, arugula, and lavender-honey mustard. Again, at first glance, I thought this sandwich would be flavor overload, but each of the toppings paired well and complemented instead of clashed with one another. Mashed potatoes > fries, apparently.

Even though we were all stuffed, there is always room in our stomachs for 1/4 of a dessert, so we decided to split one as a table. Although there are just a few options listed on the chalkboard menu (5 out of 6 of which were cake), we still had trouble deciding, and had to ask our waitress for dessert advice. She steered us towards the Cookies 'N Cream Cake ($6), which was much appreciated advice (although I'm willing to bet the other options are just as good). I doubt these cakes are baked in-house, but when they're this delicious, does it really matter? Dense, cold chocolate cake (temperature matters, in my opinion) is smothered in a creamy icing speckled with cookie crumbs, visually like a cake version of an Oreo, but a bit plainer in taste. A sweet ending to a good meal, although next time I probably wouldn't order dessert.

While the Philly food scene has so much to offer in terms of five star restaurants, a huge variety of ethnic eateries, and of course, a million cheesesteaks, the gastropub deserves more recognition, especially places like Royal Tavern. This visit also helped move their other sister restaurant, Khyber Pass Pub, to the top of my must-eat list. Good thing I have a visit planned for next weekend!

Royal Tavern
937 East Passyunk Avenue

943

2011-11-13T19:24:00.001-05:00

A couple of weeks ago, Groupon offered a deal we just couldn't refuse- a six-course meal for two at the Argentinian-Italian restaurant 943. For $30. Which breaks down to $2.50 per dish. Are they crazy? We quickly scored Saturday night reservations- a requisite seeing as they turned down every single group that came in without one. The space is nestled right smack in the middle of the Italian Market, in a surprisingly airy and spacious spot off the awning covered street. Black and white tiled floors, sparse decorations, vast front windows, and plain white walls make the space seem somewhat industrial and sterile.

As soon as we were settled in at our table, the waitress brought us a complimentary ramekin containing bits of a sharp white cheese and a mildly spicy hard sausage. Even though I felt a little weird eating them with my fingers, it was certainly a unique start to the meal. They also provided us with a more standard bread basket- slices of soft and crusty Italian baguette served with a bland sweet pepper oil for dipping. A little seasoning would have gone a long way.

There were two options for almost all of the courses in the deal (we ordered from a special tasting menu) so we were able to eat everything they were offering. The first course was a salad- I chose the Ensalada de Atun- essentially a fancy tuna salad made with calamata olives and red onion served over spinach. Half of a flavorless fig and a sweet balsamic reduction finished the dish. I was expecting a thinly sliced seared tuna, but still enjoyed the pile of fish- the slight brine of the olives was enhanced by the sea-salty tuna.

The other salad was a simple house variety- iceberg lettuce and a few cherry tomatoes simply dressed in a lemon-y olive oil and a bit of salt. We enjoyed the slightly tart dressing, but this salad was still incredibly boring. A few more fresh vegetables wouldn't hurt. Of note- the portions of the salads were much smaller than standard portions, which as part of a tasting menu was much appreciated, but you can expect a larger dose of greens when ordering from the regular menu.

The second course was an empanada. Our options were ham and cheese, beef, and chicken- we chose the first two. The filling of the ham and cheese was molded to the floor of it's thick wrap of pastry, making it flake apart a bit during consumption. I loved the crispy rounded edge of the crescent shaped empanada, but the salty flavor of the filling was rather one-note, reminiscent of a grilled ham and cheese sandwich straight from an elementary school cafeteria. The more robustly packed beef empanada had a good mix of juicy ground beef cooked with some chopped olives and a bit of chili powder, lending the illusion of a pastry wrapped taco. Enjoyable, but again just relatively boring.

Up next was a sausage course- choice of blood sausage (morilla) or a spicy chorizo. We've never had blood sausage so we were excited to try something new. Made by mixing pig's blood, pork fat, a few chunks of meat, and cream together to form the filling, this was definitely... interesting. It had the texture of soggy bread- we actually both commented that it felt like we were eating a non-food substance, almost like a paper pulp. The flavor was slightly metallic and the dark color off-putting-- I think it is safe to say blood sausage is not our new favorite food. However, the chorizo was a highlight of the meal- snappy skin, well-seasoned meat, the right amount of greasy juice oozing out on every bite... I could see this being fabulous in a sandwich or soup.

Our fourth course was a shared vegetable dish- grilled asparagus served over a white bean and tomato base and topped by a fried egg. The bean mixture was hearty and tasted as if it had been carefully tended through a long and slow stew. Vibrantly green spears of asparagus were slightly smoky, their softness pairing well with a bit of fluffy fried egg white.

Our main entree options were the ravioli of the day (two choices here), a grilled NY strip steak, or short ribs. A chose the butternut squash and goat cheese ravioli served with a mushroom sauce. Large, thin squares of fresh pasta pocketed a small dab of sweet and creamy filling. A shallow pool of earthy mushroom broth and a dusting of parmesan contributed an array of savory flavors. The pasta had a firm bite without being chewy- after my foray into fresh pasta making, I can really appreciate a restaurant quality version.

Under A's direction, I ordered the NY strip- a half portion of meat that still came as a solid serving size. My medium-rare order was cooked to more of a medium-well, but the meat was still flavorful and juicy (aided by some melt-in-your-mouth marbling) with a nice peppery crust and beautiful grill marks. Served with a simple side of green beans and fingerling potatoes, it just seemed like a standard steakhouse meal. The oily, parsley-heavy chimichurri sauce wasn't quite enough to take this dish to the next level.

We were understandably stuffed at this point, so we were again thankful for small portions, this time in the form of dessert. We're not typically fans of phlegm-y flan, but the sweet and creamy version at 943 ended up being a hit. The dessert was more firm and less jiggle, and was served with a blob of dulce de leche caramel, the plating of which seemed like an awkward after-thought. Regardless, the milky custard and sweet caramel made for a supremely mouth-watering end to the meal. A simple wedge of flourless chocolate cake was fudgy and rich, but nothing exciting.

There is absolutely no denying that this meal was daylight robbery on our part- a pretty solid meal for incredibly cheap. But I still left with a feeling of disappointment- everything was just. so. basic. I really wish they would have delved a little deeper into authentic Argentinian flavors instead of playing it so safe. I also felt that the fusion of the two focus cuisines wasn't all that translatable, emphasized by the restraint in the kitchen- were there really any dishes that incorporated concepts from both? I'm glad we could check 943 off our list, but we won't be rushing to return.

943
943 S. 9th Street
BYO and cash only

Caramel Bacon Brownies

2011-11-10T09:23:00.001-05:00

I had another bout of baking inspiration this week. They seem to be coming more frequently... I blame the impending doom of winter. Although I certainly can't complain about the gorgeous days we've had recently! Anyway, Philly Weekly recently had a lovely feature of 50+ Things You Must Eat Or Drink in Philly. I'm a sucker for a good list, but one item in particular struck my eye- the Bacon Brownies at Watkins Drinkery. As PW stated: "Salt and chocolate. It's a thing." I have to agree- that Salted Caramel Budino (with chocolate cookie crust) at Barbuzzo is nothing short of phenomenal... but I'm getting distracted again. Although we were fans of Watkins, the trek is a little far, so I thought to myself, "Self, how hard can it be to make brownies with bacon in them?"

I ended up choosing a recipe that was a little more ambitious, so truthfully, the answer to that question is "moderately hard." Or maybe just "easy to screw up." Based on this recipe, the brownies have multiple components, starting with the simple task of cooking the bacon. I used a very "natural" version that I have found to have a great texture and flavor.

The recipe only calls for two pieces of bacon, which is the first thing I would change- more bacon please! Next time I would go with at least twice as much meat. I crisped up the bacon to make it easy to crumble- an important quality for this treat.

After the bacon is cooked, remove it from the pan to cool. Then add 1/2 cup of cream (I used half and half) to the pan of bacon grease- it will bubble a bit and then cool to make bacon-infused cream.

The next part is somewhat difficult- making the caramel. Reading through the recipe made it seem super easy, but when you add high heat and sugar, you can often end up with a sticky disaster. The first step is melting one cup of sugar in a pan. As I said, the recipe called for high heat, which meant the sugar melted rapidly and required a lot of attention.

Unfortunately you can't exactly turn down the heat of the sugar once it has reached its melted state, so my sugar ended up with a mildly burned quality- not good for caramel. As soon as it was melted (it gains an amber color as it melts) I turned the heat down and added a stick of butter, which created a rather combustive reaction. Super bubbly.

Top left: Melting sugar. Top right: Sugar+butter. Bottom: Slightly chunky caramel.

After the butter melted, I turned off the heat, poured in the bacon cream, and crumbled the cooked bacon into the mix. Because my sugar got a little too hot, there were little hardened sugary clumps in the mix. I figured it'd all be going back into the oven anyway, and let the mixture begin to cool.

The next step is making an actual brownie batter. Another stick of butter and 1/2 a bag of semi-sweet chocolate chunks were melted in the microwave- 30 seconds, stir well, repeat until blended (don't overdo it!). Combine this with 1/4 cup of cocoa powder, three eggs, another cup of sugar, 1 tsp vanilla extract, and 1 cup of flour. I was surprised there wasn't any salt (wasn't that the idea?), so I added a teaspoon to the mix.

Double line an 8" square pan with aluminum foil and grease with butter or non-stick spray. Spread half of the batter into the bottom of the pan- this requires some patience as the batter is pretty thick. Then drizzle a third of the caramel over the batter.

Next, spread the remaining batter over the top and add the rest of the caramel. My caramel was nowhere near cooled so it pooled over the top.

Sugar and butter coated brownie batter.

Bake at 350F for 40-45 minutes. While your house begins to smell chocolate-y and delicious, take gratuitous pictures of your cat. Wait, no, that's not part of the recipe...

After the surface of the brownies was firm, I allowed them to cool for about an hour and a half. The high butter and sugar content makes them incredibly sticky and moist- and difficult to cut. The cooler, the better. Cut into small pieces- trust me, a few bites is all you need.

As I indicated at the beginning, the brownies aren't terribly bacon-y. There's a very mild hint of bacon, mostly due to the small chunks that are few and far between. And since my caramel wasn't exactly caramel, the brownies were instead just extremely dense, chewy, and rich-- and extra sweet!

Next time I would absolutely use more bacon (and more salt), and perhaps follow a more exact recipe for caramel- I think a candy thermometer may be essential. Regardless, these were some darn good brownies. We wrapped up about half the pan into individual servings and popped them in the freezer- a single pan will serve a sweet tooth for quite some time.

Pierogie Kitchen

2011-11-07T20:34:00.000-05:00

When a pretty important person in my life moved to Roxborough recently, I was thrilled to have a whole new neighborhood of eats to explore. While he usually frequents a sandwich shop and a diner (nothing against them!), I'm more excited about the specialty spots in the area. We often drive by a hole-in-the-wall restaurant on a corner near his house, and the first time I saw it I got excited-- I mean how cute is it??

The Pierogie Kitchen is bright, cheery, has a great name, and an even better logo. Plus- where else can you get pierogies around here? I'm at a loss. Sometime after his move, I received a Groupon offer for this very place. $12 for $25 worth of pierogies had me hitting "Buy!" in a snap (well, after a short discussion with the Roxborough resident).

After a lovely long run in the Wissahickon (another great perk- just a few warmup miles away!), we set out to use our deal. The menu is fairly extensive, offering a few dozen flavors of pierogies, a number of sandwiches (which all have pierogies IN them), a few delightful looking soups, and a few other Polish classics such as kielbasa and kraut and stuffed cabbage. They even have a couple authentic Polish desserts (our mom would be all over the chrusciki).

The daily specials are all regular menu items, so I'm not sure what makes them special. Also, when ordering, make sure to look at the menu board to ensure that what you want is not "Sold Out" (which we have a sneaking suspicion means "None in the Fridge Today." There are only two tiny tables in the front, so plan on taking your food to go. Also, plan on waiting. A long time. Although there were no orders up in front of us, we still waited a good forty-five minutes. Pretty unacceptable for a take-out spot, if you ask me. Slightly disgruntled, we hurried our bags of food home to feast.

We all ordered "Stackers," or monster sandwiches that include a pierogie in the mix. However, needing to fill our $25 quota, we also ordered six pierogies on the side- and requested three Farmer's Cheese and three Sweet Potato (the only dessert pierogie option that was not "Sold Out"). About half an hour through our wait, we were told that we'd have to pick a new flavor- so we deserted dessert (heh) and went with spinach & jack cheese ($5.20 for 6). Served hot, these little packets of dough were coated in oil, and fairly soft (not pan fried to crispness). We're not picky on texture, and actually enjoy slightly doughy items, so it was fine by us. The dough to innards ratio was decent, with a fairly thick skin giving a good bite. The flavor of the inside was hard to perceive, but a hint of spinach was enough for us. A small tub of sour cream is also provided for dipping- we recommend it.

Seeing as we HAD just completed a long run, I felt a sandwich of "considerable size and stature" was only appropriate. They aren't kidding though- these sandwiches exploded from their bread/bun/wrap and filled an entire takeout container each. While the below picture might look like a pile of mush, it was actually pretty awesome. Called the "PK Stacker," it was nothing like you might find at Burger King. Instead, a slice of rye bread is covered by a large potato-cheddar pierogie, a large smoked kielbasa is cut in half, grilled, and placed on top, and then the entire thing is covered in at least a pound of hot sauerkraut and sauteed onions. The final part is another piece of rye bread, which is toasted and spread with a spicy mustard ($6.25).

If you order one of these sandwiches, get ready to eat with a fork and knife- there is no possible way to pick this up. Even sliced in half, the incredibly soggy bottom piece of bread is useless as a tray for this falling apart heap. In any case, it tasted delicious- my salt cravings were completely ablated, and the sauteed cabbage and onions were tangy without a crazy dose of vinegar. The flavors are pretty classic Polish, so if you like kraut and kielbasa and can demolish an elephant, get this.

Another terrible picture awaits, but really, the description of the following sandwich will do: the "Spicy Chicken Stacker," a spicy, fried chicken breast topped with bacon, cheddar, caramelized onions, a jalapeno-cheddar-potato pierogie (yeah they have every flavor combination ever), and a huge dollop of garlic mayo, all on a large toasted kaiser roll ($6.25). My arteries are clogging thinking about this- but of course, a boy would order this. I took a little bite and it was just as you would expect- spicy, salty, cheesy, meaty, greasy, and admittedly, pretty delicious.

The final sandwich choice was definitely the best of the day- and I'm lucky that J agreed to split our picks. Because I had major enormous-sandwich-envy. The "Special of the Day"- the Wild Salmon wrap- was probably also the most normal of the day ($7.95). A thin piece of pan seared salmon filet (a little dry on its own) is stuffed into an herb-garlic wrap alongside delicious accompaniments of baby spinach, cucumbers, tomatoes, the ubiquitous herb-garlic pierogie, and a garlic mayo sauce that makes everything super moist, a bit like a salad dressing inside a wrap. Honestly though, I don't really understand the addition of pierogies, besides the originality factor. They blend into the sandwich, and with so many ingredients and toppings, get completely lost in the mix.

As a whole, the meal was a great deal for the more than 50% discount we got-- and provided an amazing, massive lunch. I think we're still annoyed about the incredibly long wait we faced, and thus wouldn't run back immediately. Even though the Pierogie Kitchen is more than convenient to my new second home, the convenience factor was completely wiped out by the wait. If they had a "call ahead" option, I might consider going again, just for the wild salmon wrap.

Pierogie Kitchen
648 Roxborough Avenue

Wajoe

2011-11-05T16:50:00.002-04:00

This isn't the first time, and it certainly won't be the last, but after reading a recent review of a new restaurant (Grand Opening signs still up!) nearby, we were inspired to check it out for ourselves. After some post-work shopping on Chestnut Street, it made sense for us to head right to Wajoe, a casual Korean BBQ restaurant that fits in well with the sushi and Thai restaurants in the area.

A has a recent obsession with anything spicy, so she was a big proponent of making a visit. After scouring the Yelp reviews, she made the executive decision to opt out of trying the true Korean BBQ dishes- even though each table is equipped with a fancy built-in grill complete with individual venting systems. Clean lines and warm colors complement the industrial look of the self-cooking equipment.

The menu is nicely divided into categories- apps, BBQ, hot pots (soups), noodle dishes, and rice dishes- and includes basic English descriptions and pictures. After we placed our order, we received the obligatory Korean banchan including the standard kimchi. The fermented, pickly cabbage maintained a good crunch and a mild spiciness- good by us. The rest of the banchan was served in individualized plates and were a little on the odd side- a rather plain coleslaw, cold steamed broccoli, and soft, slightly sweet potatoes. They just seemed so.. American. And plain.

Good kimchi.

Weird other stuff.

Although many of the appetizers sounded good, we decided to try something new- the ddukbokgi ($8.99), a mix of "rice cakes" and vegetables in a spicy chili sauce. Rice flour and water are mixed together and shaped into thick, chewy tubes, and served with thinly sliced carrots, onions, and cabbage that are stir-fried with a sweet and spicy red sauce with a hint of garlic. Simple and delicious.

Since I branched out a little for the appetizer, I felt justified in ordering my favorite Korean dish- the Dolsot Bibim Bap ($10.99 for the beef version). Served in a piping hot bowl, the dish includes white rice, spinach, carrots, cucumber, bean sprouts, a few shavings of rib-eye, a sprinkle of dried seaweed, and a fried egg (the piece de resistance). Obviously a solid mix of ingredients, but the key is breaking open the egg yolk, adding a good bit of chili sauce, scraping up the crispy rice from the bottom of the pot, and mixing everything together. I probably should have let the rice crisp up a bit more, but the gooey mess was everything I remembered it to be. I'm big on having a good mix of flavors and textures, so this dish clearly suits me well. I only wish the chili sauce had been slightly spicier.

Before the enthusiastic stirring process.

A investigated the "hot pot" section of the menu, extending our appreciation of kimchi and choosing the Kimchi Chigae ($9.99). This dish utilizes an "older" kimchi, with an equivocally strong fermented flavor, as well as bits of pork, and thick pieces of tofu simmered in an anchovy stock seasoned with red pepper paste. Served with a bowl of white rice, the soup had a depth of flavor in the broth reflecting the interesting mix of ingredients. A was really going for spice though, and it didn't quite live up to her interest in "mind-blowing" heat. The bits of pork were a little on the measly side as well- don't expect a lot of meat in these dishes (same for the bibim bap)- but we were fine with that considering the very affordable prices.

Wajoe was a little slow on the service aspect- with only one waiter serving the 7 or 8 groups as well as accommodating customers coming in for take-out. We weren't in a hurry, but during our dinner we saw many necks craning and hands waving throughout the room. Overall, the prices were right and there was no wait for a table, making it a good option for a low-key Friday night dinner. However, we prefer ~~Pastoral~~ (now closed, thanks Jamie) Miga on 15th Street for slightly more expensive, but significantly more authentic Korean food.

Wajoe

2034 Chestnut Street

Lolita

2011-11-02T21:45:00.002-04:00

As undergrads at Penn, we were guilty of being stuck in the "Penn bubble." Yes, it unfortunately does exist. On the rare occasion we would make it to Center City for dinner, we usually stuck to the obvious high-profile spots, like Steven Starr's Midtown Continental and Buddakan. Saved for extremely special occasions, of course. One of our friends thankfully explored the city a bit deeper than we did, and introduced us to what I have since called one of my favorite restaurants in the city- Lolita. The first restaurant opened by the now infamous Queens of 13th Street, Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran, Lolita remains a solid neighborhood spot.

Source

It's recently been weighing on me that I haven't been to Lolita since the birth of this blog-- almost two years ago! In an attempt to remedy this situation, I decided my next date night would be spent here. One of my main concerns was the lack of weekend reservations- and needing a 7PM table on a Saturday, I thought we might be in for a long wait. Thankfully (?), horrible weather helped our case, and we scored seats immediately.

The tiny dining room slowly filled up, but our front corner spot allowed a respite from the noise. The service was excellent, efficient but with enough personality and knowledge to help us make our decisions. After ordering, we were brought a basket of freshly fried corn tortilla chips with two salsas- a vibrant pico de gallo and a spicy salsa verde with a hint of lime. These chips have been the death of me through several visits to Lolita- they are the perfect start to the meal but tend to fill you up fast-- AFTER you've already ordered multiple menu items.

We decided to split a single appetizer (since I knew about those chips...), and easily settled on the pork carnitas tacos ($10). A "make it yourself" dish, it comes with a heaping bowl half full of sweet shredded pork, with accompaniments of creamy guacamole, pico de gallo, pickled red onions and a few random pea shoots. Under the bowl, four homemade corn tortillas steam in a napkin blanket, waiting to be stuffed and devoured.

The shreds of meat were full of flavor from the long braising in an orange-ginger glaze, and were well complemented by the choice of toppings- especially the guacamole. The tortillas had a flour texture with the corn flavor, giving us the best of both tortilla worlds. I kind of wish they sold them to go. The unfortunate part of this dish is that it is slightly too big- after eating my two tacos and using the leftovers filling as chip dip, I was full. Don't worry- I forged on.

I was sort of worried about taking my unadventurous significant other here, but he surprised me by being unable to choose from the list of entrees- since so many of them caught his eye. He finally settled on the braised shortrib, since the description promised smoky bacon potatoes ($24). The dish was arranged in an unusual way, with a deep pool of gravy enveloping large chunks of boneless shortrib, as well as smaller roasted potatoes. That large chunk of green on top? Sauteed swiss chard- which went directly into my stomach. The flavor of the gravy was intense- it could have easily been served over polenta for an Italian twist, but the meat was almost too one-note from its endless braise. It was likened to "pot roast," which to me is a great thing, but at a Mexican-influenced restaurant, was slightly disappointing.

I wanted a lighter option, so chose to order the Salmon a la Plancha ($21). Served over tender hearts of palm and crispy jicama with a shaved asparagus salad, it was something I could order at a restaurant every weekend and still be happy. The salmon was perfectly cooked, flaking apart over the island-inspired vegetables below. I'm a huge fan of jicama, but the large spears of it were too much- small, crunchy bits of the almost flavorless root are preferable over large mouthfuls. Unfortunately, I have to admit to being too full to completely appreciate this dish- I think if I had started my meal here, I would still be dreaming about it.

Since I've experienced the wonder that is Lolita's dessert menu many times in the past, I knew we had to share one- and it wasn't difficult to choose the Pastel de Queso ($7). This cheesecake is honestly like no other, thanks to three superb decisions on the part of the chef. First, you start with the cheesecake itself, made with local goat's milk. The ever-so-slight goat flavor adds an extra dimension that cow's milk just can't provide. Second, the crust is made with dark chocolate and ancho chilis. A bit unconventional, but a flavor combination made in heaven- you almost don't notice the slight heat, you're just wondering why it's so amazing. And finally, the absolute piece de resistance, the pool of salted caramel that the cheesecake swims in. This stuff, in a jar, with a spoon, thank you. You find yourself wanting to lick the plate. I promise. Unless you're so full you need to loosen your belt.. but that's another issue.

After far too long, it was great to get back to an old favorite. While it doesn't have the wow factor that some of the up and coming restaurants have (like the newest Turney-Safran joint, Barbuzzo), it has been churning out consistently solid meals for almost eight years- and in this city, that's saying a lot. It was also fun to relive some of the memories I have from past meals here, including savoring the same flavors (Hello, cheesecake! Missed you!), as well as being able to share them for the first time with a Lolita newbie. I hope it maintains its spot on 13th Street for many years to come.

Lolita
106 S. 13th Street
(BYOB/Cash Only)

"Everything" Cookies

2011-10-29T14:35:00.000-04:00

Every couple of months, A & I hit up Nuts to You, a wholesale chain with stores scattered around the city. We stock up on various kinds of nuts, seeds, dried fruit, and grains by the pound, some of which invariably disappear within a week or two. With a well-stocked pantry, I got a mid-week urge to make cookies. I initially wanted to make a rendition of our favorite "Hao's Chocolate Chip Cookies" but I ended up changing it a little too much. Even though they're totally different, they turned out great!

Ingredients
1/2 c. butter (1 stick)
3/4 cup white sugar
1 cup light brown sugar
1 tsp salt
2 eggs (I used flax eggs)
1.5 cups flour
1 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp nutmeg
1/2 tsp cardamom
1/2 cup rolled oats
1/2 cup shredded coconut
1/2 cup pecans
1/2 cup dried cherries

As the title suggests, these cookies seems to have everything in them. "Coconut Pecan Oatmeal Cherry Cookies" is sort of a mouthful.

I melted the butter in a mug in the microwave, then mixed it with the sugar, salt, vanilla, and "eggs."

Flax eggs making another appearance.

In another bowl I stirred together the flour, soda, and spices.

I added in the oatmeal and coconut here as well- optional ingredients that could be replaced with a bit more flour. The Trader Joe's oats are coarser than typical "quick" oats, which I was excited about- I like my cookies chewy.

Typically I mix the dry ingredients into the wet, but I wasn't thinking when I chose my bowls, so they went in the opposite way. It made it a little harder to incorporate, which may have changed the texture of my dough. After everything was mixed together, I added in the good stuff: pecans and cherries. Chocolate chips, other dried fruits or nuts would also work just fine.

I refrigerated the dough for 20 minutes while my oven preheated to 350F. Again, I was trying to mimic our original cookie recipe, but at this point the ratios were so off that I'm not sure the refrigeration made a difference. I did keep the tradition of making enormous cookies- golf ball sized rounds of dough, eight at a time into the oven.

The bake time on these was excruciatingly long- about 18 minutes. The dough didn't seem wet in the bowl but the cookies just looked so gooey I knew I couldn't take them out early. They also spread out considerably, and as soon as I deemed them to be cooked through, they fell pretty flat. So sad.

However, all was not lost. Even though these were in no way the thick and crumbless cookies of my dreams, they were caramelized on the bottom, quite chewy, and full of good flavor.

A compared the texture to the cookies served at the chain bakery Au Bon Pain, thin but not crispy. The edges had a bit of a crunch, and each mouthful contained a little bit of sweet dried cherry or piece of pecan, while the cardamom and nutmeg provided a spicy flavor throughout. Very autumn-y! Glad I could use up some of the stocked goodies too, now maybe I can ignore them and make them last a bit longer...

Sweet Lucy's Smokehouse

2011-10-26T13:55:00.003-04:00

Recap: I'm getting married. We want to eat barbecue on our wedding day. We're looking for a caterer! Review of the first option we tried can be found here.

Our second barbecue-based outing sent us to a restaurant that has been highly recommended by many people-- Sweet Lucy's. The trip once again required a car, this time just a ways up I-95 to the northeast part of the city. Sweet Lucy's (named after a cute black puppy) is located just off the highway, in a fairly quiet, industrial part of town. The bright lights and country atmosphere seemed a little out of place, but it walking in was like entering a time/travel warp to the South.

Exterior.

Barn decor inside.

Monday nights find diners feasting on an all-you-can-eat buffet- and for only $19.95 it's absolutely the way to go, especially if you want to try all of the items. The setup is fairly simple: enter, pay at the counter, get a camo wristband (amazing), find yourself a table, go to town on the food. Everything is steaming hot and frequently replenished, leaving no qualms about freshness. On my first go at the buffet, I tried to get a small sample (1-2 bites) of a variety of sides, as well as a few bites of some of our meat options.

Clockwise from cornbread: pulled pork, collards, cabbage, spare rib/brisket/rotisserie chicken,
sweet potatoes/cheesy spinach/coleslaw

Let's start with the meat. Throughout the course of the night, I sampled pulled pork, pulled chicken, rotisserie chicken (thigh), beef brisket, baby back ribs, smoked salmon, and a bite of smoked turkey. No wonder I was still full when I went to bed. Regardless, the quality and flavor of every meat was more than I could have asked for. The sweet, smoky hickory flavor was present but not overwhelming, instead letting the cuts of meat speak for themselves. The brisket was my absolute favorite- with almost a pot roast falling apart texture, I had to go back for seconds (yes, on top of all that other meat!).

The smoked salmon was also a surprise hit- tender and moist. The rotisserie chicken was perfectly done- skin smoked to a crackling crisp, with the underlying meat coated in its liquified fat. A little greasy, but incredibly flavorful- which also describes the baby back ribs. The meat easily fell off the bone on the first bite, and its smoky essence required no additional sauce. While this meal might be a vegetarian's nightmare, it's pretty much a meat-lover's dream.

Ribs, brisket, salmon, and smoked turkey.

Moving onto the sides: Sweet Lucy's had at least ten for us to sample. I'm a sucker for the classics: give me baked beans, coleslaw, collard greens and I'm a happy camper. However, I'm all for experimenting with some other options, and none of the offerings did me wrong. On my first go round, I grabbed a bit of baked beans, collard greens, braised cabbage, macaroni and cheese, caesar salad (with cornbread croutons!), coleslaw, mashed sweet potatoes, and cheesy spinach.

Sides on the buffet. Complete with Halloween and more barn decor.

The baked beans make a good segway from meat to sides, since the little scoop I got actually was primarily meat- shredded pork drenched in the sweet, smoky sauce surrounding the beans. The addition of generous pieces of meat is a sure-fire way to make good baked beans, but even without it, I'm positive these would still be good. The collard greens (also made with a bit of meat for extra flavor) were slightly spicy, with the greens retaining a good bite- they went on my "must have" list immediately.

Beans, collards, cucumber salad, mac n' cheese. Sweet potatoes on the left.

The mashed sweet potatoes were also put on my hypothetical wedding menu- smooth, creamy, with just that hint of natural sweetness that gives them their name. The macaroni and cheese- while perhaps not my favorite rendition- was solid enough to round out our top choices (I mean, what's barbecue without macaroni and cheese?). The garlic mashed potatoes were one of my fiance's favorites- whipped with bits of red skin keeping textural interest. However, mashed potatoes aren't a classic Southern barbecue side- so as good as they were, they're simply not kosher.

Some of the other nontraditional options surprised me, though. The caesar salad was a sleeper hit- I think the cool crunch of the lettuce really offset the warm saltiness of all that meat. The cornbread croutons added in that spike of the South- I may never be able to enjoy regular Caesar salad again. The cheesy spinach was another one I loved, although J disagreed- she thought the smooth mixture of dark greens and melted Cheddar cheese sauce was too salty. Out of an evening of amazing food, I guess we can nitpick about something.

Chili station complete with amazing cornbread croutons.

You're probably tired of hearing how amazing everything was, but I'm not quite done. Because I must focus on the homemade cornbread for just a moment. The buffet held a basket of large, square pieces, stacked upon one another to retain some of the heat from the oven. The bread was a bit crumbly, but the crumbs stuck together, making it easy to get every last one. Just a little sweet, it was so good that seconds were necessary.

The buffet price also included a drink and dessert. J took the correct route, mixing 2/3rds of a cup of unsweet iced tea with 1/3 sweetened tea. The mixture was still quite sweet, meaning they did their job well. A big glass of good sweet iced tea is the quickest way to get home, if just for a moment.

After that gut-busting meal, dessert seemed like a bad idea, but after taking a break to talk though our options with the head of catering, we hit up the dessert bar to look at the options. Chocolate chip bread pudding looked intriguing but the cinnamon apple crisp called my name a little louder. A little scoop (picking out extra crumb topping) paired with a side of vanilla ice cream was an unnecessary but completely appreciated end to the meal. A large basket of assorted cookies and brownies was also available, but after a quick survey, I decided that most of them looked unappealing next to the steaming apple crisp. A last minute pick of a small chocolate chip cookie managed to occur though, and I'm glad it did, as the cookie tasted like it came directly from my mom's oven.

As we rolled out of the restaurant, I reiterated a request to move to Northeast Philly- this is the kind of down-home Southern cooking I would like to eat on a regular basis (although frequent all-you-can-eat meals might not be the best idea for my health). We're still waiting on more information from the catering side of things, but at this point I would be more than happy to have Sweet Lucy's on our special day.

Sweet Lucy's Smokehouse
7500 State Road

Day By Day

2011-10-23T19:59:00.001-04:00

A good brunch never fails to hit the spot- we've waxed poetic about this late morning meal more than once. After a few days in Florida being ~~slaves~~ bridesmaids in our older sister's wedding, we needed to spend the day catching up on errands and putting in a few hours at work. We decided to treat ourselves to a meal out to start the day. There is a little weekend brunch spot that I occasionally pass on my way to Trader Joe's, but I had never really heard anything about it. The name "Day By Day" doesn't do much for me either, but its convenient location between home and work made it a good option for the occasion.

We walked in a few minutes after they opened at 10 AM, and it was already almost full of diners- a good sign right off the bat. While we were waiting to be seated, I scanned the baked goods menu- each section of the menu is posted at least once on chalkboard menus scattered throughout the space. In order to cram as many patrons in at once, we were seated awkwardly close to another duo... practically at the same table. Oh well, I hear communal dining is the new thing.

DBD serves La Colombe coffee, but I had about eight cups more coffee this weekend than I typically do, so I opted to start with a pick-me-up of the sugar variety. We chose to try the pumpkin bites (2 for $1). The mini-muffin/donut hole hybrid had a subtle pumpkin flavor that gave way to more of a cinnamon and nutmeg spiciness. A generous coating of cinnamon sugar added sweetness to balance the spice, as well as giving the moist and fluffy cake a crunchy exterior.

The menu has all the brunch staples- from pancakes to poached eggs to Huevos Rancheros- as well as a specials menu that I assume changes from time to time. A ordered from the "regular" menu- the potato pancakes benedict ($12.50). DBD keeps it simple- no heaping sides of hash browns or toast come with each dish, just a few pieces of fruit. Two flat palm-sized potato pancakes were made with shredded potatoes cooked to a crisp. I really enjoyed the crunchiness of the pancake, as the toppings are on the soft side. Poached eggs released their golden yolks over a bed of smoked salmon. The ultra savory yolks were well complemented by the salty salmon. A very thin Hollandaise sauce was undetectable, which was actually a nice change- no overpowering flood of butter.

Since A's dish was savory, I was "forced" to order something sweet. This was a no-brainer for me- the special french toast of the day- caramel apple stuffed french toast ($10). Four super thick slices of challah sandwiched a gooey cream cheese, cinnamon, dried apple, and walnut filling. Fried in an egg batter and served hot with a glazed apple topping, this was the definition of indulgence. I've tried my hand at stuffed french toast, but DBD definitely out did me here, especially with the pool of caramel butter sauce at the bottom. You had me at gooey cream cheese.

Although the food wasn't anything new or particularly exciting, I think that they seem to excel at making very solid versions of all the brunch classics- and I'm not really looking for anything more. Judging by the steady stream of customers, Day By Day already has a large group of loyal regulars. You can call ahead to save a spot if you're planning a mid-brunch-rush visit. They also serve lunch during the week, and run a catering business. I need to stop in again soon, if only for some baked goods!

Day By Day

21st and Sansom

Zachary's BBQ

2011-10-19T20:36:00.000-04:00

After a couple of months of enjoying the post-engagement bliss, I've jumped feet first into wedding planning. We're trying to keep it a casual affair, but obviously good food is pretty important to me! We thought barbecue would be a good option- nothing fancy, just some good Southern down home eats. In order to keep things as tasty as possible, we're in the midst of researching as many barbecue-based catering companies in the area as we can. First on our list: Zachary's BBQ. Unlike many caterers, Zachary's also has a restaurant of the same name- perfect for taste testing. The restaurant is actually quite a few miles out in the burbs, in a quiet area of Norristown, slightly awkwardly adjacent to a gas station.

View from the street Source

The place was pretty quiet on a weekend afternoon, so the man behind the counter had all the time in the world to chat us up. He gave us a full "tour" of the food options available-- free samples of most items are offered to help you make your decision. We each chose a meat platter, which comes with two sides and the option of a roll (to make a sandwich) or cornbread.

I chose the beef brisket, which is thinly sliced and coated in their signature barbecue sauce ($9.95 for the platter). The beef was soft and flavorful- with a blackened edge and inner pink rim that are the sure signs of authentic hickory smoked meat. A touch of fat along the middle added to the flavor without being too greasy. The sauce gave it an extra spicy, salty zing- not really necessary, but a good addition nonetheless.

J chose the pulled pork platter ($8.95), which is always our favorite barbecue option. The pulled pork came in a funny jumbled pile-- perhaps I'm used to it on a bun. The crispy edges and the soft inner strands of meat were done just right- I can't say enough about the quality of the barbecue here. Zachary's does their pulled pork (and chicken) Carolina-style, with a good dose of a vinegar-based sauce. We usually wouldn't choose this style, but here it worked perfectly- just a hint of vinegar let the hickory smoke flavor shine through.

I picked an assortment of sides- there are at least a dozen options, but I tried to stick with the classics, since they will most likely be what we will order for our wedding day. The maple mashed yams (top picture) were one of the only disappointments of the day- overly sweet with an artificial maple flavor. If there is one thing I'm a real food snob about, it's real maple syrup. The cole slaw (above) was simple, sticking to the classic combination of shredded cabbage and carrots in a thin, mayonnaise based sauce. I don't love super-thick-mayo coleslaw, so this hit the spot- cool and refreshing.

The collard greens were my absolute favorite side we tried. Collard greens tend to be either too plain or too salty, but these found a happy medium. The bite sized pieces were boiled until soft, but not wilted, and the addition of smoked turkey countered the earthy flavor of the greens. I find it weird to be waxing so poetic about collard greens, but these things were great. The BBQ baked beans- one of my favorite traditional BBQ sides- were done with a Caribbean twist (the head chef and owner, Keith Taylor- not sure who Zachary is- is of Caribbean descent). Bits of canned pineapple added textural contrast to the beans, but also provided a saccharin sweetness that I didn't love. To each their own- props for lending your own touch to a dish, but I personally prefer a more classic flavor.

Even though we probably won't serve ribs at our wedding (what do you think-- too messy?), my fiance chose to order the pork ribs as his meat of choice- and I don't blame him. They looked delicious! A half rack (5-6 large ribs) runs you $16.95 for the platter, but is worth every penny. Dry-rubbed before a long, slow roast, the ribs were also coated with the signature sauce (I really should have bought some of the stuff to go!).

We also tackled an additional two sides, the macaroni & cheese and Hoppin' John. Mac n' cheese is a necessity for Southern barbecue, and this one was spot-on. Creamy, cheesy, chewy noodles without a dry spot to be seen. I'm skeptical about the claim of FOUR different types of cheese, but whatever they're using, please keep on using it. The Hoppin' John is a bit untraditional for a barbecue, but is classic Southern... plus, I have a secret obsession with black eyed peas. The little beans are mixed with rice, chopped onion and bell pepper, bacon, a touch of vinegar and a variety of spices. Super flavorful and very hearty, I could easily eat this as a main course.

Our final food to tackle was the cornbread, a true test of Southern baking. Each chunk of bread was individually wrapped in wax paper and served warm. The texture was a good mix between crumbly and cake-like, but a bit lacking in the corn flavor. Little bits of red and green pepper studded each bite, adding a tiny dose of heat. The bread was fairly sweet- again, I'm a bit more traditional and prefer a more savory cornbread, but I DID manage to eat my entire slice (plus, cornbread at all is hard to come by in Philly).

Overall, we left very satisfied with the meal- delicious, quality meats and a large variety of solid sides. I would be more than happy to eat this on my wedding day. I'm still not completely sold on the catering side of things, but I definitely recommend Zachary's as a good spot for barbecue- perhaps the best I've had in the Philly area. While it is forty minutes from the city, if you're craving true Southern cooking, it's worth the drive.

Zachary's BBQ
1709 Markley Street
Norristown, PA

Curried Red Kuri Soup

2011-10-15T09:39:00.001-04:00

It's officially the Season of Soup. There's really nothing like a piping hot bowl of hearty soup on a cold, wet day. Refreshing salads have their place through the steamy summer, but as soon as it turns fall... helllooo soup. To kick off the season, I made a simple mid-week soup that had an extra warming quality- curry!

Of course, our recipes are still being dictated by CSA items (sadly for only two more weeks), and this week, we got something a little different- a red kuri squash. This winter squash is similar to a small, ridgeless pumpkin, but with a slightly darker color and a sort of bumpy surface.

While she was menu planning for the week, A found this recipe, gave me a "loose interpretation" of it, and basically let me make it up as I went along. This doesn't always work out well, so I made a mental ingredients list and made sure to get everything ready before I started- nothing like getting halfway through a recipe and seeing you have 45 seconds to get two onions chopped and three potatoes peeled. The squash was pretty easy to handle- a quick peel, cut in half, seeds scooped out, and chopped into bite size pieces. The hollow part is quite large, and completely packed with seeds- almost no pulp (a great squash for making baked "pumpkin" seeds!)

I also diced two small white onions, a cup of carrots, two large garlic cloves, and a small piece of fresh ginger.

Once I had all of my ingredients ready to go, I fired up the stove, heating a couple tablespoons of sesame oil in a cast-iron pot. I sauteed the ginger and garlic- the "aromatics"- for about a minute before adding in the onion and carrots. A & I have found that this initial base of flavor- sesame, ginger, and garlic- makes a great start for any spicy, savory dish, especially if you're trying to build an Asian flavor profile.

As the onion and carrot cooked down without needing too much attention, I organized the remaining ingredients of the soup. The initial recipe called for the following:

1 ½ tablespoons of Thai green curry paste
2 tablespoons Indian curry powder
1 can of coconut milk
5 cups of chicken broth
2 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons sweet chili sauce

We're pretty much pros at improvising when a recipe calls for a long list of ingredients- we mostly make due with what we already have one hand instead of purchasing all new items. My ingredients list included the following:

1 1/2 T Thai red curry paste
1 1/2 T curry powder (the last bit we had!)
1 can coconut milk
1 cup chicken broth
1 cup water
2 T oyster sauce

I added the curry paste and curry powder in with the cooked veggies and let them absorb a bit of the flavor. The concept of combining different types of curry was rather novel- the original recipe calls this pairing "complex and delicious," so I was willing to give it a shot.

After a couple of minutes, I added in the remaining ingredients. I felt that the five cups of liquid that the original recipe called for was rather extreme- two did the trick for me. The last thing in the pot was the squash. I gave everything a good mix, popped the lid on, and let it do it's thing.

I've always felt that soups take hours to build flavor, but this combination of spices made for an almost instant depth of hearty spiciness. It only needs enough time to cook the squash through, which is dependent on how small you cut your pieces. I gave mine about twenty minutes at a low boil. To finish the soup, I added 2 T of brown sugar, a can of chickpeas, and a teaspoon of salt- this enhanced the sweet and saltiness of the oyster sauce, as well as bulking up the soup and adding a bit of protein.

I garnished with a bit of chopped cilantro and a drizzle of Sriracha- two ingredients whose quantities are highly dependent on the individual palate. A little of each does the trick for me.

Let me just say, red curry paste is my new best friend. They should just call it "magical paste"- I really think it was the key ingredient in this soup. However, I loved that the recipe was versatile- I certainly didn't follow it to a T, but it still came out great, with a real ~~sinus~~ soul warming quality. While I loved the super smooth texture and slightly nutty flavor of the red kuri, it could be easily replaced by a small butternut squash. The original recipe included chicken, but I think a little bit of lamb may fare well in this soup. The quantity of broth could be decreased to make more of a stew to be served over rice or naan... OK, I'll stop. The options are pretty much endless. Like I said, we're all about improvisation!