Whole Wheat Cranberry Scones

I think the world might be a better place if everyone had their one source for no-fail recipes.  Some people swear by single cookbooks, some might run to allrecipes.com or foodnetwork.com (maybe even have a favorite TV chef), just as long as you knew where to look when you really want to make a good _____ but don't know how (fill in the blank with whatever dish you can think of).  I personally like to turn to blogs.  Maybe it's because of this little blog, but I enjoy a personal story, some good action photos, and the promise of lots of reader comments to filter through.  Recently, my personal favorite (I know, I'm wayyy late to this show) is Deb Perelman at Smitten Kitchen.

Her blog is lovely, charming, funny, and adorable all at once- and that's before you even get to the food.  The recipes are creative but straightforward, and all of them will give you that perfect product for which you were looking.  I sound like a crazy fan-girl, but truth is, I kind of am.  The chance to see her at a recent stint at the Philadelphia Library sealed the deal- she's even more of all the previously named adjectives in person.  Her freshly produced cookbook The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook made its way into my Christmas gifts this year (thanks, J!) and I wanted to dive into it immediately.

The first recipe I tried is ironically also featured on her blog: Whole Wheat Raspberry Scones.  Even though it was a recipe she specifically created for the cookbook, she's transparent (and kind) enough to share it on the blog as well- although this is not the case for all of the recipes (go buy it-- I swear I'm not making commission here!).  Since I'm admittedly a terrible baker, I followed the recipe almost exactly, subbing only the fruit component.

Whole Wheat Cranberry Scones
makes 8

1 c. whole wheat flour
1 c. all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp. baking powder
1/4 c. + 2 Tbsp. granulated sugar
1/2 tsp. salt
6 Tbsp. cold unsalted butter, cut to small cubes
3/4 c. ricotta (Deb prefers full fat, I used part skim with great results)
1/3 c. heavy cream
1 c. fresh cranberries

While Deb included raspberries, I found myself with a half bag of cranberries leftover from the holidays.  In order to produce a softer fruit with less bitterness, I pre-cooked the cranberries by simply heating them in a saucepan with 2 Tbsp. of sugar for about five minutes and things started getting a little juicy.

Remove from heat and allow to cool while you start preparing the dough.  Combine the first five ingredients together (sans the sugar you already used...) in a bowl and cut or blend in the cold butter until it is well incorporated, no large chunks remain, and the dough "resembles a coarse meal."

Stir in the cranberries, then add the ricotta and cream.  Mix with a spoon or spatula until most of the flour is incorporated and then get your hands in there to finish the job.  It'll be super sticky but don't worry- you won't have to work with it much.  Scrape all of the dough onto a well-floured surface, shape into a smooth mound with the spatula and sprinkle flour across the top.  This will make it MUCH easier to shape into a square- about 1-1.5" high.

Deb instructs readers to cut this square into 9 smaller squares, but in my opinion, a scone isn't a scone unless it's triangular.  I cut each of the corners off and then formed the remaining square into four additional triangles by drawing an X through it with my knife.  Transfer the scones to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or simply coated with cooking spray.

The recipe comes with great instructions for the next step, depending on when you plan to eat the scones.  Making them in advance?  Slip the pan (covered with plastic wrap) into the freezer until you're ready to bake.  No defrosting necessary when it comes time to enjoy.  Since we were eating them for breakfast the following day, we did just that.

The next morning, I pulled them out of the freezer and straight into a 400 degree oven (after removing the plastic wrap for those of you needing literal instructions).  After baking 18-20 minutes, the scones should be golden brown at the edges- just how you want them.  If the dough isn't frozen, check them at 15 minutes.

I honestly didn't know my kitchen was capable of producing such perfect baked goods- they actually looked like Deb's pictures, they were soft and crumbly with a richness from the cream and ricotta and the perfect mix of sweet and tart from the cranberries (pre-cooking them was definitely the right way to go).  I want to make these every weekend for the rest of winter-- but I also keep eyeing the recipe on the opposite page (Chocolate Chip Brioche Soft Pretzels OMG).  I know this will be a cookbook I use and enjoy for a long while!

Kris

We had a wonderful Christmas including a long weekend with the parents- they braved the wind and cold (and even a little snow!) to pay us a visit.  Friday night found us at Kris, a "seasonal Mediterranean" restaurant just a few blocks from my apartment in South Philly.  I honestly thought the place was brand-new seeing as I had only recently even heard of it, but the hostess informed me that it's been in business just over a year.

The restaurant occupies a corner brownstone-sized space, including several sections of tables and a bar for those in the mood to catch a game.  We sat in the back room, which was well-lit and pretty quiet considering we were there during prime eating hours.

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The menu is pretty lengthy, giving us some difficulty in selecting a meal for four.  Thankfully the waitstaff delayed bringing the bread out until after we'd made up our minds- otherwise I might still be there trying to decide.  A generous section of a thick and doughy Italian loaf was fine, but the lemony olive oil soaked white beans were the real hit.  Intensely flavorful, playing off little bits of red pepper and herbs. 

We split a couple of the "small plates," starting with the mushroom grilled flatbread ($11).  A personal pizza-shaped crust was chewy in the middle but had slightly over-done edges.  Shavings of mushrooms and onions were caramelized and scattered around the pie (wait.. this wasn't pizza) and covered with a melted layer of fontina and truffled pecorino.  I get excited for all things truffled, but to be honest, this was relatively plain.

We also split the grilled octopus ($13), which I definitely would rather not have shared.  Big chunks of chewy tentacles with smoky char marks are tossed in a mildly spicy oil tinted with smoked paprika.  The vinegar from the pickled vegetables provided the perfect acidic contrast, as well as a bit of crunch- we particularly enjoyed the fennel, an underrated vegetable if there ever was one.

Our mom often orders a couple of smaller plates to make up her main course, this time starting with a classic Caesar salad ($8).  Kris continued the trend of the super-flavor, transforming a pile of crunchy Romaine ribs into a peppery, smoky, anchovy-infused pile of crunchy Romaine ribs. Garlic-y ciabatta croutons added another dimension of texture and flavor, rounded out by a generous amount of shaved parmesan.  Probably nothing healthy about this salad, but it certainly was delicious.

The other half of her meal was comprised of the baked crespelle ($10), a super savory crepe filled with butternut squash puree and ricotta cheese.  A rich (and slightly over-salted) Marsala and mushroom cream sauce provided an almost meaty substance to the dish, with fresh sage the predominating herb.  A nice crispy fried sage leaf served as both garnish and a fun little bite.  Probably a reason this is a "small plate"- its richness makes it a great dish to share.

The padre opted for the special of the evening- a pan-fried skate served with lentils and braised greens ($23).  I'm not big on skate but a bite of the lentils mirrored the buttery texture of the fish.  A bit lighter than some of our other dishes, but still a hearty winter meal.

A chose from the pasta section of the menu, ordering the pappardelle with sea scallops ($18).  The noodles were on the skinnier side for a pappardelle, more like a slightly fat fettuccine. Bite-sized half-moons of tender scallops paired with the basil pesto cream sauce made for an ultra-luxurious comfort food.  Roasted fennel and tomato gave it a tint of smoke.  Overall just a very satisfying bowl of food.

I continued the trend of comfort food with the venison osso bucco ($25), an enormous hunk of slow-cooked, fork-tender deer meat that easily peeled off the chunk of bone.  Osso bucco literally means "bone with a hole."  The cooking method preserves the bone marrow inside the hole, and our waiter kindly provided me with a skinny metal tool for scooping out the fatty chunks.  Spread on a piece of bread- meaty butter at its finest.  Butternut squash and spinach risotto absorbed plenty of the venison juices, with a dried cherry and red wine sauce as a finishing touch.

I'm interested to see how Kris alters their menu to fit the spring or summer season.  Based on our experience, the majority of the dishes were rich and heavy, which fit just fine for a blustery December evening.  It was a memorable meal, and Kris will probably become another neighborhood staple for me- a casual atmosphere, great service, and definitely a good value (no skimpy portions here!).

Kris
1100 Federal St

Burger Club: Red Owl Tavern

This month's Burger Club "meeting" was held at Red Owl Tavern, the newbie restaurant in the also-newbie Hotel Monaco in Old City.  The Monaco is the second Philadelphia area hotel in the Kimpton line, following just a few years after one of my personal favorites, the Hotel Palomar near Rittenhouse.  While we haven't heard much about the Red Owl, we did come in with a few preconceived notions.  First, we're somewhat familiar with Executive Chef Guillermo Tellez, as he was formerly the chef at Square 1682 (ironically or not, in the Hotel Palomar- he must love the Kimpton benefits).  Second, we had recently read a scathing review from Phyllis Stein-Novack at South Philly Review, and it became an inside joke that Red Owl "almost ruined Edward's birthday!" (said in mock horror).

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The restaurant spans a long corner slot at 5th and Chestnut (nobody from our group could come up with the previous use of this building) with the hotel entrance immediately adjacent.  The pastry chef works in a tiny kitchen near the entrance, enticing us all with a display of pies and cookies before we even ate dinner.  Our group had a space reserved upstairs, in a loft complete with all the loft-y accoutrements: lots of dark wood and black metal and a few uplights (Mrs. Stein-Novack's complaints of lack of light are certainly founded).

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Unlike some of the other restaurants we've convened at, Red Owl only has a single burger, the "Big Red Owl Burger"- the waiters simply had to ask us how we wanted our meat cooked.  Thankfully we had a delicious distraction while we waited- housemade truffled popcorn.  This stuff was insanely good and super addictive.  Our table of ten went through several buckets of it in half an hour- warm, salty, buttery with a kick of truffle oil.

The burgers all arrived almost simultaneously- impressive for a group of 20+.  Of course, this means that there were probably a few mix-ups and a few overdone burgers, but that's pretty much par for the course.  The burger is described as topped with crispy bacon, cheddar, herb sauce and onion marmalade, and is a hefty serving living up to it's $15 price tag.

In examining the burger upon it's arrival, it's clear there are a few changes from the menu description.  Shredded lettuce and tomato are little extras (fine by me but not by all others) and the "onion marmalade" clearly had raisins within.  I don't like raisins, and I definitely don't want them on my burger next to lettuce and bacon.  That's just weird.  Thankfully, the mix consists primarily of  caramelized onions which were easy to remove.

The bun was a good fit for the meat, with a floury surface and a light texture.  The bacon and cheddar added the necessary salt and grease to the well seasoned lean beef.  The patty isn't monstrously thick, making it that much harder for the chef to reach the requested medium-rare.  The lack of pink didn't kill this burger, though- a definite sign of a well prepared sandwich made with quality ingredients.

Other club members decided the onion marmalade really made the burger- a hint of cinnamon and sweetness was reminiscent of an empanada.  I'm still not convinced that either cinnamon or raisins belong in a burger, but to each their own- and again, a nod to the chef for making such an odd topping a hit with many in our group.  The crispy fries lightly coated in shaved pepper jack cheese were a good complement to the meal - a special touch to an otherwise normal side.  Since we never actually perused the rest of the menu at the restaurant, I'm not convinced I'll make it back here for a regular meal.  But if you're in the neighborhood and need a solid burger in a lively atmosphere, Red Owl could be your spot.

Red Owl Tavern
433 Chestnut Street

Pie-stravaganza

Before the craziness of the holidays sets in, we wanted to get a few friends together and were contemplating a potluck style dinner party.  However, one friend alerted us to a fabulous different idea: a pie party (original inspiration a la Elizabeth Banks).  I mean, really, who doesn't love pie!?  And the chance to try almost a dozen homemade pies-- I couldn't resist.  Thankfully, many of our friends were up for the challenge, many of them baking THE FIRST PIE OF THEIR LIFE!

I have to admit I scoured the internet for a long time looking for inspiration for my own addition to the party- I was leaning away from the holiday classics of apple, pumpkin, and pecan to ensure we didn't have lots of repeats.  I also knew I wanted to construct my pie in a single afternoon, unfortunately eliminating many delicious pies from my search.  Eventually I decided to morph a few different recipes, using some of my favorite ingredients, into an original pie.

Elvis Pie

For the crust:

9 graham crackers (one sleeve)

5 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted

1/8 c. granulated sugar

For the mousse filling:

1 large ripe banana

1 c. peanut butter (any variety, I used this one)

1 Tbsp. vanilla

8 oz. cream cheese (one block)

1 c. + 2 Tbsp. confectioner's sugar

1 c. heavy whipping cream

For the middle layer:

1 ripe banana, sliced

5 slices thick cut bacon, cooked until crisp and drained

Surprise! Yep, this pie isn't vegetarian.  Ever heard of "the Elvis"?  Rumor has it that Elvis' favorite sandwich consisted of peanut butter, banana, and bacon, although reports are controversial.  Either way, it sounds like a great combination to me- I love anything sweet and salty.  Another surprise- even with multi components, this pie only takes about half an hour to put together (not including chilling time which isn't absolutely necessary).

Constructing the crust may be the most time consuming step.  I crushed the graham crackers in a plastic bag until only crumbs remained, then combined with melted butter and a bit of sugar.  Press it carefully into a pie pan until the bottom and sides are covered with a compact layer-- the back of a buttered spoon helps this process immensely (it will stick to your fingers or an unbuttered spoon, making things messier!).

Bake the crust for 10 minutes at 350F, then allow to cool briefly before adding your filling.

For the mousse, first whip together the first four ingredients (banana through cream cheese).  I used a regular hand mixer, but a stand mixer would get the job done even faster.  Whip until a smooth texture is obtained.  Then, add 1 cup of powdered sugar-- sifting it will help prevent lumps but I skipped this step and still managed a smooth pie.  Beat an additional 1-2 minutes until completely incorporated.  In a pre-chilled bowl, combine the additional 2 Tbsp. confectioner's sugar with the whipping cream and beat until stiff.  You want a really fluffy texture, so go that extra 15-20 seconds to prevent any soupiness (but without making butter!).

With a spatula (or in your stand mixer), fold the whipped cream into the peanut butter mixture just until well-mixed.  Spread half of the mousse into your pie crust.

Make an even layer of banana slices over the mousse, making sure to cover all the way to the edges.

Then, add your sliced bacon, again ensuring even coverage.  I tried to break my bacon into "bite sized" pieces.

Add the rest of the mousse and carefully spread over the bacon and banana (and without disrupting the crust which is still fairly fragile!).  Chill (uncovered) in the fridge for at least two hours.  If you want to eat it immediately, go ahead-- it will just have a much softer texture and won't slice evenly (but will be guaranteed delicious).  If you are keeping it for the next day, cover it after two hours- at this point the mousse will be solidified and won't stick to foil or plastic wrap.

The final result was just as I imagined- very rich, with both the banana and peanut butter flavors well apparent in each taste of mousse.  The bacon pieces were odd texturally, but added an extra smokiness that I loved.  The bacon flavor was even stronger two days later- enough time for the ingredients to settle.  Definitely best served cold, as the mousse is most solid straight out of the fridge.

Our guests brought a large array of amazing pies, of which I really attempted to sample as many as I could.  We joked of having a Best Pie competition, but at the end of the night, I'm not sure most of us could have agreed on a favorite.  Some of the samplings:

Chocolate Peanut Butter Pie

Peach and Cherry Hand Pies

Chocolate Hazelnut Pie (made with Nutella!)

A huge crowd favorite- Apple Cranberry Raisin with a perfect crust!

One of my favorites- Washington Nut Pie (similar to pecan but made with walnuts)

Others included a chocolate bourbon pecan pie (modeled after the version sold at Magpie) and a mint Oreo pudding pie.  I loved the huge variety, but was definitely on sugar overload at the end of the night.  However, it was a great excuse to get some friends together and show off our baking skills- I was incredibly impressed by all of them.  We hope your holidays are filled with as much cheer and good food!

Brunch at Russet

Continuing on the theme of luxurious weekend brunches, the two of us carved a little bit of time out of the busy holiday season to have a meal together- a "twin date" as we like to call them.  We decided to stay close to home and check out the brunch scene at Russet, a new-ish farm-to-table concept on Spruce.  In the early afternoon, we had our choice of tables and grabbed a well-lit corner table by the window.

The space is on the smaller side, but with only a few tables occupied, we felt like we had our own private dining room.  The lone waitress was attentive and friendly, but seemed bored in between checking on tables. The vibe is definitely vintage chic, with a rustic holiday-themed window display (seasonally changing just like the menu!).

 Speaking of the menu, Russet's brunch is edited down to the bare minimum, but provides options for everyone regardless of sweet or savory preference.  I threw in a request for one of the house-baked pastries- the lemon raspberry scone ($4).  The pastries come with an assortment of accompaniments- creamy butter and two types of jam, peach and balsamic strawberry.  The table also hosted a little dish of salt for sprinkling on other dishes- a fancy little touch.

The scone was the perfect way to start the meal- not too sweet with a touch of tartness from both fruits.  Dense in the middle with a crumbly crust coated in a thin layer of glaze. A dab of butter and peach jam... scone heaven.

We both happened to be in the savory mood, so we decided to split the two egg dishes.  The duck confit croque madame ($16) is well-worth its higher price tag.  This is a VERY serious sandwich.  Two thick slices of brioche toast are practically coated in melted Swiss cheese, sandwiching a generous leg of slow-cooked duck.  The inclusion of the bone was an odd accessory- thankfully, it was incredibly easy to twist it right out of the sandwich.  With the addition of the croque madame signature- the over-easy egg on top- the richness of each of the elements combined to make an almost overwhelming sandwich (but who are we kidding, you better use a knife and fork to eat this one).  Some lightly dressed baby arugula helped cleanse the palate in between bites.

We were so enamored by the grits at Khyber the previous weekend, it inspired us to try another version. Russet's cheesy grits ($5) are served hot in a miniature Le Creuset.  While they definitely had a good, stone-ground texture, the grits were on the soupy side and could certainly have used more of the "cheesy."  Thanks Khyber, you've spoiled us.

The other egg dish of the morning was the chanterelle omelet ($14), also served with a side of arugula salad.  For any other Top Chef followers like myself, you may have seen a number of chefs compete in the first episode this season to make the perfect omelet.   While some of the Top Chef contestants succeeded at this task, the omelet served to us at Russet was far, far more perfect than any of those.  Seriously.. look at that thing. It's flawless!

Chewy chanterelle mushrooms and the subtle onion flavor of sauteed leeks made for a super savory (but meat-free!) combination.  The earthiness was counterbalanced by a spread of budderfass inside the egg- a creamy and pleasant "Alpine style" cheese.  And the egg itself? About as good as it looks.  Fluffy but with a little snap to give the dish some structure.

To be honest, splitting the two egg dishes ended up being a little too much savory for me- the chef was a tad heavy-handed with the salt.  The crispy chocolate crepe could have been a great antithesis to one of these dishes.  However, we really enjoyed our meal at Russet, especially the cozy and quiet atmosphere.  I'm hoping business is just slow due to the holidays, because I'd love to see this place stick around in our neighborhood.

Russet
1521 Spruce Street